Free Garment Patterns Historic Costuming Sewing

Victorian Bodice Pattern Complete

Below are images of the finished Victorian bodice pattern.  It is inspired by one of the court gowns of Empress Elizabeth of Austria (a couple of the reference photos provided by customer are below).  This is just the bodice, which includes a drape that is gathered into a bustle extension on the backmost panels.  I was not able to examine the original piece or find more detailed photos of the stitching and construction, so this pattern is my best guess based on the information I have.

Late Victorian Bodice Pattern - Front Panels, by Sidney Eileen
Late Victorian Bodice Pattern – Front Panels
Late Victorian Bodice Pattern - Front Side Panel, by Sidney Eileen
Late Victorian Bodice Pattern – Front Side Panel
Late Victorian Bodice Pattern - Back Side Panel, by Sidney Eileen
Late Victorian Bodice Pattern – Back Side Panel
Late Victorian Bodice Pattern - Back Panel, by Sidney Eileen
Late Victorian Bodice Pattern – Back Panel
Late Victorian Bodice Pattern - Sleeve Upper, by Sidney Eileen
Late Victorian Bodice Pattern – Sleeve Upper
Late Victorian Bodice Pattern - Sleeve Under, by Sidney Eileen
Late Victorian Bodice Pattern – Sleeve Under

I do assume with this pattern that it will be used by an advanced sewer who needs minimal instruction.

To construct this pattern, I recommend sewing the dart in the Side Front panel, and then joining the Side Front, Side, and Side Back panels.

Next construct the Bottom Edging, which should be two layers of cover material, plus interfacing (preferrably something to give it a little weight) and any desired trim material (on the reference dress, it looks like lace and beadwork).  It should then be sewn to the bottom of the joined Side Front, Side, and Side Back panels.

Construct the Front Center and Front Facing, using the same layering and materials as used for the Bottom Edging.  If you want a placket at the center front, sew a rectangle of cover material about 1.5″ wide and sew it into the front edge seam on one side the length that will be closed.  Add any desired trim material.  Sew it to the Side Front panel.  The bottom of the Front Center panel should be even with the bottom of the Bottom Edging.

Sew the two halves of the back panel together at the center.

Assemble the pieces for the Back Edging, which should be the same as for the Bottom Edging.  It will sandwich the Back panel on one side, and the Side Back panel on the other, and should be trimmed to match the Bottom Edging.  Sew it to the Back panel.

Sew the Side Back panel into the Back edging panel, matching the marks.  The greater length of the Side Back panel below the waist should be pleated into the Back Edging between the indicated marks.  The short side of the Bottom Edging should also be sewn into the Back Edging, but not pleated.

Sew the shoulder seams

Add the Collar

Sew each of the sleeves together and add cuffs and adornments as desired.

Sew the sleeves into the body of the bodice.  Match the back seam of the sleeve to the seam between the Side Back panel and Back Edging.  Ease the sleeve around the armhole.  Pleat all remaining length into the body at the top and back of the shoulder.  Adjust pleats as needed for comfort.

Ideally, this style of bodice should be worn over a corset and a bustle.

These are three of the reference photos I was provided.  They all link to the source sites, with historic information on Sisi.

Canvas surtout – 100% done (no photos yet)
Adjustable underbust corset – 100% done (no photos yet)
Black coutil underbust – 100% done
Victorian overbust pattern – 100% done
2nd gown bodice pattern – 100% done
Silk underbust with lace edging – Pattern Drafted
Tea-stained Victorian overbust with spoon busk – Not started
Victorian silk overbust corset – 0% done
Traditional/Punk Rock fusion Wedding Gown – 0% done
Machine washable corset dress – Pattern drafted, postponed