The last few days I have been working on my hybrid style fully corded corset. The first step is to fully cord all the panels and gores. The strength layer is coutil, with thin cotton rope for cording, and black linen for the cover material. I couldn’t find yellow buttonhole thread, so I am using bright yellow machine embroidery thread for the stitching on the cords of the black panels.
The overall design is a hybrid of conical stays with stomacher and Victorian.
WIP1 – Three out of fifteen panels corded. Strength layer is coutil. Cording is a thin cotton rope. Cover is black linen. Cording channels are stitched with bright yellow machine embroidery thread since I couldn’t find the right color in buttonhole thread.
WIP2 – Six and a half panels out of fifteen corded. After I finish cording each panel I trim down the linen to the size of the coutil.
Detail of the cord channel stitching on the unfinished back panel. I am using a thin cotton rope for the cording, and bright yellow machine embroidery thread for the stitching so it will pop.
WIP3 – Nine and a half panels out of fifteen corded. The two panels on the right side are for the stomacher, which will be yellow linen with black stitching.
Detail of the underside of a panel after cording, before trimming. The cording is sticking out slightly at the top and bottom ends where the edge of the corset will be bound. The cording stops a short distance from the seam allowance to either side, but the stitching continues into the seam allowance.