Inserting the Busk
The next step is to attach the busk panels.
If you are using cover material instead of ribbon on your busk panels, sew it into the seam joining the ribbon panel to the busk panel.
Line up, pin, double-check, and stitch the seam as before.
Stitch along the seam holding the ribbons together.
Fold over the seam allowance and quilt the ribbons to the busk panel. Fold the ribbon over the top edge of the coutil panel if needed. Trim the ribbon at the seam allowance on the far side.
For the hook side of the busk, the panel is in two pieces. For the moment I am only working with the half that will be on the inside of the corset. It is attached in exactly the same way as the other busk piece, except that the ribbon is trimmed even with the far edge of the coutil. Do not leave seam allowance clean of ribbon.
If you are using cover material instead of ribbon on your busk panels, sew it into the seam joining the ribbon panel to the hook side of the busk panel.
Pin, double-check, stitch, and quilt as before, slashing the ribbon if needed.
If you are using cover fabric for your busk panel, hold the body of the cover fabric away from the quilting. You DO NOT want any of the quilting to go through your cover fabric.
Mark the hook locations in chalk before sandwiching and sewing in preparation for inserting the busk.
Each coutil panel will be covered with vertical strips of ribbon. On the busk panel, these vertical ribbons need to be included in the hook seam so they will fold over smoothly.
If you are using cover fabric instead of ribbon for your busk panels, sandwich it in place of the ribbon.
Insert the busk, fold over all layers, and stitch in place using a zipper foot. Hold the busk as tight against the seam as you can. All layers (ribbon and coutil) are stitched through.
Hand-fold and iron the loose seam allowance, also folding over the loose end of the ribbon or cover fabric. Also fold over the loose edge of the inside cover material so it just barely covers the coutil panel. Edge stitch your coutil panel, securing all layers along the edge of the panel. If everything is lined up, and the ribbon cover on the back is folded under and tight against the body of the corset, it should be secured in this one stitch.
Now we turn our attention to the peg side of the busk. Fold over and iron the seam allowance on the loose edge of the busk panel. Then fold the panel in half, matching the seams. Iron it, creating a crisp front edge.
Place the hook side of the busk butted up to the folded front edge of the peg busk panel, and then mark the locations where the hooks should be.
If you are using cover fabric on your busk panels, fold and iron it with the coutil. Mark on the cover fabric for inserting the busk, and insert the busk through both the coutil and cover fabric.
Insert the peg half of the busk using a tapered awl.