How to Make a Corset Using the Welt-Seam Method

How to Make a Corset Using the Welt-Seam Method, by Sidney Eileen

Add the Boning

If you put a busk in your corset and want to border it with additional boning, stitch in those seams.   They are not technically necessary, but will help keep the front of the corset from bending as easily.

How to Make a Corset Using the Welt-Seam Method, by Sidney Eileen

 

 

Insert all boning.  If you are using integral boning channels, insert the boning into the pocket created by the folding of the core layer at each seam.  If you are using boning tape, sew the boning tape to the body of the corset before inserting.  Boning tape may be sewn to either the inside or the outside of the corset, and typically it will follow the seams or go down the middle of each panel.

Be sure to leave enough room above and below each bone for edging the corset.  The edges of the boning can be as far as 1/2” from the edge of the corset without sacrificing stability.  If you are going to be trimming and shaping your edge differently from the way it looks right now, keep this in mind when choosing and securing your boning.

Secure the boning in place.  This only requires a couple stitches back and forth above and below the boning.  Stitch as close to the boning as you can without breaking a needle.  The less wiggle room the boning has, the less likely it is to wear a hole in your corset as you wear it.

Alternatively, you can floss the corset by hand to secure the boning, but this is best done after edge stitching the corset (just below).

To machine-secure the boning, I insert the sewing needle by hand for the first stitch.  That way I can have the stitches right next to the boning.

How to Make a Corset Using the Welt-Seam Method, by Sidney Eileen

 

 

Work your way from one side of the corset to the other.  You can trim the loose thread between the boning channels after all the boning is secure.

How to Make a Corset Using the Welt-Seam Method, by Sidney Eileen

 

 

Set your machine to a slight zig-zag and stitch along the top and bottom edges of the corset, smoothing all the layers as you go along so there is no pulling, puckering, or bunching.  Using a zig-zag instead of a straight stitch will allow the edge to flex along the bias.

If you will be reshaping or significantly trimming the edges, use this edge stitch to define the trimming area.  Put the stitch line just inside the area you want to trim off.

How to Make a Corset Using the Welt-Seam Method, by Sidney Eileen

 

 

When the edges are stitched the body of your corset should look something like this.

How to Make a Corset Using the Welt-Seam Method, by Sidney Eileen

Click for Larger

How to Make a Corset Using the Welt-Seam Method, by Sidney Eileen

Click for Larger

 

 

If you want to add any flossing, decorative grommets, rivets, hardware, embroidery, or other design extras, this is one stage where it can be done.  If you are creating a floating lining, the lining will cover and protect the inside of the decorations from you, and you from the inside of the decorations.  Just keep in mind that any adornments added at this stage much be far enough from the edge, or flat enough, to not interfere with stitching the edging on the corset.  For example, if at this time you place grommets right next to the edge of your corset, later you’ll find yourself stitching the edging on by hand.

 

5 thoughts on “How to Make a Corset Using the Welt-Seam Method

  1. Pingback: Costume Notes: Casual Wonder Woman (based on art by Hanie Mohd) | The Geeky Seamstress

  2. Pingback: WIP July 2015 Edition | The Geeky Seamstress

Share Your Thoughts? (first time comments are always moderated)