Construction Demo – Quilted Gore Victorian Corset

Quilted and Flossed Silk Overbust - Quarter Front View, by Sidney Eileen

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 17, by Sidney Eileen

Once the body was completely prepared, it was time to quilt the gores.

Once the body was completely prepared, it was time to quilt the gores.  Each gore is three layers of coutil and one layer of cover material.  As with the visible stitching on the body, I used heavy-weight upholstery thread.  I quilted the gores in a diamond pattern, stitching along the bias to remove what little stretch it has.  I started at one corner, and holding all the layers together, sewed a straight line along the bias.

Note: If you have trouble keeping your layers together and even, you can baste the layers together around the edge, or fuse them together before quilting.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 18, by Sidney Eileen

Hugging the edge of the gore, I sewed parallel stitch lines to the far corner of the gore, using the edge of the presser foot as my guide.

Hugging the edge of the gore, I sewed parallel stitch lines to the far corner of the gore, using the edge of the presser foot as my guide.  Each of the stitches is just slightly less than 1/4″ apart.  Instead of pinning, my hands primarily kept the layers from shifting as I sewed, and also made sure the stitches stayed straight.

NOTE: Use whatever pattern of stitching you would like for your corset.  As long as the layers are firmly quilted, the exact pattern is purely aesthetic.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 19, by Sidney Eileen

Again hugging the edge of the gore, I came back to the starting point and finished the pattern of parallel lines, finishing at another corner.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 20, by Sidney Eileen

I repeated the pattern, but in a perpendicular direction to the first set of stitches.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 21, by Sidney Eileen

And came back around to the starting point, so the pattern could be completed.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 22, by Sidney Eileen

Once all the quilting stitches were in place, I stitched entirely around the outside of the gore, slightly more than 1/8″ from the edge.  This ensured no raveling of the stitches took place after the gore was trimmed.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 23, by Sidney Eileen

All of the gores, quilted.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 24, by Sidney Eileen

All of the gores, quilted and trimmed on the seam sides.

All of the gores are quilted and trimmed on the seam sides.  The edges of the gores that would be the outside of the corset were not trimmed.  I needed to trim 1/8″ from the gores to even up the edges and eliminate any shifting between the layers.  When drafting, I had deliberately cut them with 3/8″ seam allowance, when the intent in the final sewing was for a 1/4″ seam allowance.  The top and bottom edges of the corset have no seam allowance, so they are not trimmed at this time.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 25, by Sidney Eileen

The first gore, seated into the body of the corset.

To insert the gores, they needed to be coaxed completely into the body of the corset.  This took some work, but it was critical that they be seated entirely within the slots. If they didn’t seat completely, then they would not fit properly.  At best the corset would look a little odd.  At worst, it wouldn’t fit or the gore would pull free from its stitches.

There is no seam allowance on the top and bottom of the corset for the gores or the panels, so the edges of the two needed match up evenly.  If the gore stuck out from the panel, then it was not fully seated.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 26, by Sidney Eileen

Securing the gore.

I started at the edge of the corset, and being careful that the gore stayed fully seated while sewing, I stitched 1/16″ from the edge of the panel.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 27, by Sidney Eileen

You can see that the gore and panels are flush at the bottom edge of the corset.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 28, by Sidney Eileen

Further securing the gore.

To ensure that the gore is firmly stitched in place through all layers, I stitched again 1/16″ in from the first stitch.

Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset - 29, by Sidney Eileen

This image shows the corset with all the gores stitched into place.

 

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