corset » By Sidney Eileen

Corsets – A Buyer’s Guide

With the variety of corsets available, sorting out what to buy can be quite baffling. This article provides a basic overview of corset purchasing, including the pros and cons of different price points and features, ready-to-wear vs. custom, why steel boning is good, tips for finding the best possible fit, budget, and more.

I don’t personally have a bias for or against ready-to-wear vs. custom corsets. Every individual has different needs, and each kind of corset may be better suited to each person. I will refer to both fairly frequently throughout the article, and discuss the strengths and weaknesses of each when appropriate. I do recommend ready-to-wear for first-time corset purchases, because it is a smaller investment, and will provide valuable experience regarding how YOU wear a corset, and what is comfortable for you.

A Logical Start

When a person decides they want to go get a corset, the first fun considerations usually revolve around shape and design. What do you want in a corset? What do you want it to look like? Do you want to wear it with a specific outfit, or for a specific occasion, or do you want to wear it frequently? Do you want one that has lots of embellishments, or do you want the option of wearing it under your clothing? What color do you want? Are you interested in waist training, want to give your figure a nice little bump, or do you want to avoid compression at all? How unique do you want your corset to be, and are you willing to modify or adorn it yourself to achieve that uniqueness?

All those questions are fun, and important, and some or all of them are probably what you are thinking about when you are perusing corset web sites and just window shopping for what you would love to own.

Buying For Your Body

When it comes time to actually plan your corset purchase, you must consider two more things. What is your natural shape, and what are your accurate measurements?

Those two questions can take precedence over many other questions and considerations, like design and budget, or ready-to-wear vs. custom, because in order to have a prayer of finding a corset that not only looks the way you want it to, but also fits and is comfortable, you need to take those two things into consideration. If you are looking at ready-to-wear sites, you may very well find that the perfect corset you picked out isn’t available in a size or shape that is compatible with your body. That’s completely normal, because we are each uniquely shaped, and when you are looking at a garment that is not only form-fitting, but form-altering and rigid, it needs to fit you perfectly in order to be completely comfortable. There are so many ready-to-wear designers out there that if you look hard enough, you’ll probably find something that is compatible with your natural shape, but not necessarily. In order to be successful in business, they need their corsets to fit on a significant portion of the corset-wearing public, so they will tend towards measurements that are more common than not.

So, when you are ready to decide on a corset purchase, it is important to take some basic measurements so you have a better idea of whether or not a ready-to-wear a corset will fit you when it arrives, or if you need to focus on custom tailored. You won’t need every measurement from my measurement chart (and if you work with a custom maker, they will have their own measurements they work from), but it is a good idea to measure your underbust, waist, and hip (at about the height where a corset would stop), and figure out the maximum front length you would be comfortable wearing. This is most apparent when sitting, so sit up straight and measure from the base of your sternum (or your underbust) to just above where your lower abdomen becomes your lap. Try not to lean forward when taking the measurement, as the curvature of your torso will make it appear shorter than it actually is. This is the maximum length of an underbust corset for you. If the front of your corset is too long, it will either shove up your breasts, or prevent you from sitting comfortably, or quickly get bent out of shape. Your maximum overbust front length is probably going be about three inches longer than that, but it depends upon your torso length and the exact style of the corset (plunge vs. high over the curve of the bust).

What’s in a waist measurement? Well, lots of things. Ready-to-wear sites will very often have their corset sizes listed by waist measurement, and have their measurement / sizing chart with all the other fit details listed on its own page. But you may or may not want to order the corset size of your natural waist measurement. To figure that out, you need to answer another question.

Do you want to avoid compression at all, want a light lacing corset, or a tight lacing corset?

If you want to avoid compression at all, you’ll want to focus your corset buying search on “fashion corsets” or “shapewear”. There is no standard industry term for corsets that aren’t quite corsets, but if a seller is being honest about it, they will usually use one of those two terms or another term that is distinct from “corset”. Some sellers and makers even sell both shapewear and steel boned corsets. Despite both being referred to as “corsets” and sometimes having a very superficial resemblance, they are actually extremely different garments. For example, Spanks, girdles, and fashion “corset tops” fall into the shapewear group. If a seller lists the boning as plastic, or doesn’t specify (this happens frequently with less reputable sellers), then it is shapewear. Buy to your waist measurement, and if the quality is good, it should slightly shape your figure, but will also move with you. They often involve other modern materials like elastics, and can look fantastic. They are also usually less expensive, but tend not to be very durable. They can be made custom, but there are very few corset specialists who know how to and will make this kind of garment, so I would recommend checking for custom lingerie makers. In the corset enthusiast world, these are typically not seen as corsets.

For the rest of this article, I will only be discussing real corsets, with waist reduction and steel boning.

Light Lacing

Light lacing is the most common kind of corset wearing, especially for occasional use. It’s most often about a 10% reduction of your waist measurement, but the exact amount can vary from person to person depending upon your natural shape and the amount of natural squishiness in your torso. It’s important because it prevents the rigid corset from shifting and chaffing or slipping around while you wear it. That compression quite literally holds it in place. In the process, you should see a nice little exaggeration to your natural figure.

In order to have the strength and stability necessary for a light lacing corset to be comfortable and have any chance of durability, it needs a couple essential features: A strength layer (sturdy cotton or coutil), and steel boning (either spring steel or spiral steel). Heavy weight leather can eliminate the need for both cotton and boning, but these corsets are not common. It’s also a good idea for the corset to have waist tape, as this helps provide strength and durability in the location of greatest stress on the garment. Any seller should have the materials used listed on their site, and be willing to answer those questions if you contact their customer service. Beware of tricky wording like “Steel busk and bones”, which leads you to think it means “steel busk and steel bones”, but is actually not specific on the kind of boning.

The steel boning (and enough of it) is very important because it is what prevents the corset from buckling under the stress of the compression and ending up a wrinkled, painful mess at your waist. Plastic boning doesn’t usually work because it isn’t as strong and stable as the steel, and as it warms to your body temperature it becomes even softer. If the corset doesn’t have enough boning, even if the boning is steel it will still buckle from the stress. That buckling causes uneven pressure, and can make the corset dig into your body, which is uncomfortable at best. If the buckling is severe enough, or manages to happen in just the wrong place, it can cause pain and bruising, and generally make the experience one you’re likely to not repeat.

Most corsets will have either a steel busk or some sturdy boning in the center front, bones sandwiching the grommets in the back, and at least one bone per seam (another 8-10 bones). If you are larger in size, or taking more than about three inches off your waist measurement, you’ll probably need more boning (or sturdier boning) to help the corset keep its shape.

When you are looking at custom and bespoke corsets, you may find other alternative materials that can be used with great effectiveness, but as far as I know these alternative materials are never used by the RTW industry. They can include reed and cording, and I’ve even heard of one custom maker who uses plastic boning, though a vastly different variety from the featherweight boning or rigiline you can buy at the fabric store. Alternate strength materials include meshes, ribbon, linen, hemp, and all manner of coutil-family fabrics. Most makers use a single strength layer, but others use two, or offer the option.

Tight Lacing & Waist Training

If you are interested in tight lacing and have never owned a corset before, I would recommend buying a light lacing corset for your first corset. That way you can get a good feel for what type of corset is comfortable on your body, and whether or not you would actually be up for tight lacing. Tight lacing is the practice of lacing a corset to the smallest comfortable waist measurement. It is usually undertaken as part of intentional waist training, but is sometimes used for occasional corset-wearing, although most people would probably not be comfortable wearing a tight laced corset as a one-off or infrequent occurrence unless they were already very comfortable light lacing. If you buy a corset that is tight lacing, it is very important to season the corset before your event so that you will be comfortable wearing it.

Exact definitions of waist training vary, but in general it involves the wearing of a corset with deliberate frequency with the intent to alter the shape of the torso even when not wearing a corset. Some people do this as part of a 23/7 regimen (literally only taking the corset off to bathe), while other people wear corsets just during their waking hours on a daily or nearly daily basis. Corsets purchased specifically for waist training usually have fewer embellishments so there is more versatility in wearing them, but more importantly, they should always be made to the highest possible standard of quality and strength. If you are concerned about longevity in your corset, then a custom made corset of waist training quality is your absolute best choice, whether or not you actually intend to waist train, because it will be better made and last for more wearings.

If you wear a corset frequently, even a light lacing corset, you may find that it suddenly seems too big, like maybe it has stretched, because it laces closed or no longer is tight enough to stay put when worn. If all your clothes still fit the way they used to, this is probably because you have unintentionally waist trained, and your body has grown accustomed to the alteration of shape. It’s no need to panic. It just means you will probably want a corset with a little more waist reduction so it will stay put again.

Tight lacing is usually around a 20% reduction from the un-corsetted waist measurement. The additional pressure of the waist reduction, extended hours of wear, and frequency of wear mean that the corset will be enduring a lot more stress, and it will wear out more quickly than a corset worn only occasionally. Think about how long a lower quality bra wears, and a lower quality corset (even if matching the strength criteria for light lacing) will probably not last any longer. The highest quality corset will last a lot longer, but it too will wear out with regular use, especially if it’s put through the paces of an active lifestyle. In the late Victorian, when corsets were usually worn daily, advertisements usually promised corsets would last for one year. There are RTW makers who provide corset shapes that may work for tight lacing in the initial stages, but most people who waist train will eventually find they must buy from custom makers in order to achieve their desired silhouettes.

Another thing to keep in mind when looking at corsets, especially in the ready-to-wear market, is that a corset labeled as “tight lacing” is only actually tight lacing if the person wearing it sees a significant reduction of his or her natural waist measurement. In reality, that RTW “tight lacing” label is at best an indication that the corset is for a curvier figure, and hopefully made from sturdier materials. At worst, it is a buzzword being used out of turn to sell something for which it isn’t actually suited.

If you are interested in waist training, I highly recommend reading up on the practice and buying your corset from a maker who understands the process. It is a process that takes time, and requires lifestyle changes in order to be successful. There are too many quality makers of tight lacing corsets to list here, but these are some places where you can find quality information on tight lacing for free.

Romantacy: http://romantasyweb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=R&Category_Code=wt
Contour Corsets: http://www.contourcorsets.com/tightlacing_tips.html
Pop Antique: http://www.popantique.com/corset/corsettraining.html
Contour Corsets (links): http://www.contourcorsets.com/links.html

I also recommend the book “Corset Magic” by Ann Grogan, which is reviewed by Lucy on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbGLRTfMTU4

For a video option, Lucy covers many of the topics of interest to tight lacers in her playlist “Physical Effects of Corseting”: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL0F578952365CE673

Budget and Ready-to-Wear (RTW) vs. Custom vs. Bespoke

The first obvious difference between the three is price, so budget can play a huge part in deciding where to start, but keep in mind that in the world of corsetry you will usually get what you pay for. There are exceptions, of course, but in most cases the more you pay, the higher quality garment you will get. One reason for this is quite direct: the higher quality materials are expensive to purchase, even wholesale, and a higher quality corset will usually use more of them. The other reasons usually relate to the skill and experience of the designer, and the time and effort put into creating a more precise and flaw-free garment. Designers capable of consistently creating completely wrinkle-free corsets are often some of the most expensive around. Curvier silhouettes and more complicated designs will also tend to be more expensive because they require more skill to create. The least expensive ready-to-wear corsets are always mass manufactured, so their quality will vary depending upon the standards of the seller and the manufacturing facility.

In general, for the same quality garment from the same maker, a shorter corset will be less expensive. “Waspie” or other very short waist cincher corsets are usually the least expensive, sometimes hundreds of dollars less expensive than a comparable overbust from the same maker. Most sellers and makers also charge extra for larger sizes, if they offer them at all, but some charge the same prices irregardless of size. Fancy cover materials, extra embellishments, and pretty much anything extra usually adds to the price as well. When I mention prices, I am talking extremely general prices, usually referring to full length underbusts, or basic overbusts, in simpler designs and with few (if any) additions. If you want lots of bells and whistles, expect the price may go up very quickly, irregardless of where you are purchasing your corset.

If budget is a huge consideration for your corset purchase, I recommend visiting Lucy’s web site for her list of corset brands by price range. She also provides links to reviews of the makers. http://lucycorsetry.com/corset-brands-by-price-range/

The least expensive corsets on the market are, without a doubt, RTW. A quick search of the internet will immediately turn up multiple sites offering “genuine steel boned corsets” for less than $100. If you are budget strapped that’s pretty darned tempting, but be very careful or you may end up with a corset that goes straight into the trash. Many bargain-basement corsets are not as promised, and as a result can be completely un-wearable. Be sure to check for reviews before buying a corset for less than $100, because it may or may not be worth your money. Also, be very critical of their wording, the consistency of photos (watch for stolen couture photos to sell inferior products), materials used, and whether or not their customer service answers your questions in a quick and straightforward manner. You may be able to get a wonderful corset in this price range, but care must be taken to avoid fraud and worthless items.

The lowest end custom corsets can be garnered starting at about $150 for an underbust, or sometimes even an overbust corset, especially if you are looking on places like Etsy. Most makers in the low price range are just starting out, so they may not be using quality materials or techniques or know how to accurately fit a corset, or you might get lucky and find someone who is on the ball and just trying to get more experience. When I first started, I offered corsets on Etsy for $150-$300, and some of them are still in my portfolio today. It’s a gamble, so decide if you are willing to take the risk before buying bargain custom corsets.

There are a large number of RTW companies in the $80-$500 range that offer quality corsets, and in some cases garner loyal customers who return to them again and again. RTW can be advantageous for a couple reasons, especially for the first-time corset buyer. The turn around is usually very fast, sometimes as little as a week or two. There are a few with turnaround times of several weeks who make their RTW corsets to order, giving you some of the flexibility normally found in ordering custom. If budget is a big factor for you, for the lowest possible price you can probably find something that fits you well enough to wear without discomfort and evaluate if you like wearing a corset enough to invest in a more expensive item. If you’re lucky and studious about checking sizing charts and contacting customer service, you may even find a company that has designs which fit you extremely well. Most of the time, though, it probably won’t be an exactly perfect fit, and may or may not be comfortable to wear for extended periods of time.

Custom corsets are made to order, not just with a choice of fabrics, but with a pattern that is tailored to your measurements. Most of the time a custom order will involve a mock-up (at least one) to verify the fit of the pattern before making the finished garment. Some makers will do this in person, while others are willing to do it by mail, so even if there is not a custom corset maker in your area you can still get a custom corset. Each corset maker will usually have a specialty, be that aesthetics, certain techniques or materials, body types, or something else entirely, so it’s worth looking around for someone who makes corsets that are perfectly suited for you. For example, when I was in business I specialized in atypical body types, those of us who didn’t really have the option of buying ready-to-wear because our measurements were too far from “standard” in one way or another. If you have particular issues that complicates your corset fit, like marked asymmetry in your body (all of us are a little asymmetrical, but usually not enough to worry about), it’s worth asking around for someone who can work with you. If you are buying a custom corset, you shouldn’t have to settle for a less than perfect fit.

A step up from custom is bespoke. If you are interested in bespoke, budget had better not be a concern for your corset purchasing, because when the sky is the limit, so is the price. Bespoke corsetry takes the custom idea a step further by using portfolio designs as inspiration starting points, and seeks to make a unique item every time. Where custom corset may offer the choice of whether or not to have shoulder straps with a particular design, bespoke allows you to potentially specify everything, from the lines of the edges of the corset to the shape to every detail of the embellishment.

Additional Considerations

There are a few more things to consider when buying a corset, which may or may not be important to you in particular.

Customer service can be very important, especially if something goes wrong with your order, and even the most reputable makers can have things go wrong from time to time. I have mentioned customer service several times because when you can’t try on the products before buying, it’s very important to be able to get detailed information about your potential purchase. If they’re not willing to get back to you in a timely manner before you buy something, they’re definitely not going to get back to you if something goes wrong.

Most sellers and makers will have some sort of a guarantee or return policy. Be sure to find out what the policy is, and make sure you are comfortable with it before buying your corset. A RTW corset should be returnable or refundable if it doesn’t fit. Beware of RTW companies that don’t clearly state their return/refund policy. Most of the time a custom corset is only returnable if there is a defect upon arrival, although some makers do have limited guarantees. Be sure to pay attention to the time frames and exact conditions, and realize that a custom made item is a lot of time, effort, and materials, and it’s not something the maker can turn around and sell to another customer, so they are not likely to go out of their way to make you happy if you end up with buyer’s regret.

Responsible sourcing is an issue that is becoming more important to more people, and it may be something you want to keep in mind, especially if you are looking to buy RTW. Your least expensive RTW corsets are pretty much universally going to be made in sweatshops, but there are also a number of RTW companies which make their corsets domestically (in their own shop, in the country where they operate). Among those who source from overseas, some visit the manufacturing facilities to make sure the workers are treated fairly, while others do not. Responsibly sourced fabrics, the use of glues, and leather use also matter to some people, but probably won’t be listed anywhere on a web site. If these things matter to you, contact customer service and ask. Companies who practice responsible sourcing are usually very proud of their efforts and will be more than happy to talk to you about it.

Additional Information

Lucy Corsetry has built a huge resource of videos on corsets and corset making, as well as corset reviews.

Her main site: http://lucycorsetry.com/

Her YouTube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/bishonenrancher

Corseting: General Information playlist: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLC6B380E5D1D41A14

Corsetier Map: http://lucycorsetry.com/corsetiere-map/

Lucy’s Corset Consultation Service: http://lucycorsetry.com/corset-consultation/

Corset Reviews playlist: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL93B1316AC63E0BA4

Thank you for reading, and as always, feel free to leave any comments, questions, or thoughts down below.

How to Make a Corset Using the Welt-Seam Method

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Dedicated with unending gratitude to everyone in the corset making community who has been incredibly supportive and encouraging as I seek treatment for advanced lyme disease. Thank you!

This tutorial will walk you through the process of making a basic, boned Victorian underbust style corset from beginning to end. It is written with the novice corset maker in mind, providing start-to-finish instructions using a method that is much more straightforward and forgiving of imprecision and errors than most of the methods described in my tutorials.

The method described is often called a “welt seam” method, but I have also seen it and variations of it called “folded seam”. The principle idea is that you build the corset from front to back, adding each panel as a complete unit. This makes construction relatively quick and easy by eliminating repetitive tasks and lessening the impact of imprecise cutting and sewing. It can be very strong and durable, and relatively lightweight. It is easy to include one boning channel per seam during construction, or to add boning channels with boning tape after the body is assembled and before edging.

The disadvantages are lack of design flexibility and the quick build-up of bulk at the seams. It is difficult to use with gores because of bulk where multiple seams meet, although gores inserted into a slash can avoid this problem. It can also be difficult or impossible to create extra adornments and features that span multiple panels. However, for the beginning corset maker the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages, and this method and other similar variations are mainstays for many experienced corset makers.

You will need:

A Sewing Machine – It doesn’t need to be fancy or expensive, but it does need to be of decent quality. If you are making your corset on the cheapest sewing machine on the market, you may run into some problems with tension, consistent stitch length, or simply overtaxing your machine when sewing the thicker parts of the corset.

Assorted Notions – You’ll want to have a good stock of basic sewing notions like scissors, pins, pin cushion, measuring tape, cutting board, fabric chalk, thread, etc.

Strength-layer Fabric – Ideally, you will want to use corset coutil. However, this fabric can be very pricey so suitable alternates include cotton drill and canvas. Alternates will not hold shape as firmly as coutil and generally will wear out faster. It is also much more likely that your boning will wear through less expensive core material unless you use bone casing. Most people will need less than a yard of material for each layer.

Fashion-layer Fabric – This can be just about anything. Avoid stretchy materials. If you are using an alternative strength-layer fabric, using heavy-duty upholstery fabric for your fashion layer can help extend the life and durability of the corset. Most people will need less than a yard of material, so search the remnant bins at your local fabric store.

Boning – Ideally, you will want flat spring steel and spiral steel boning. What lengths you will need depends upon your pattern.

Grommets – Split metal grommets (with a flat lip around the outside) will hold the best. You will also need a setter for the grommets, a mallet, and a tapered awl. I like using O size grommets. Many other corset makers use OO grommets. Either works well.

Lacing – Something to lace up the corset in back, like corset lacing, parachute cord, or double-face satin ribbon.

Pattern-Making Supplies – Even if you start from a commercial pattern, you will need some pattern-making supplies to modify the pattern. On the cheap end you can use a pencil, tissue paper, tape, any ruler, a length of string, and a basic calculator. On the expensive end you can use a pencil, butcher paper or pattern drafting paper, tape, a large clear ruler, a flexible ruler, and a graphing calculator.

Optional Supplies:

Busk – A split metal busk, 1” shorter than the center front of your corset pattern.

Bone Casing – Ribbon-like material with a pocket through the center, specifically made to hold boning.

The Pattern

Option 1: Purchase a commercial corset pattern and use these instructions instead of the instructions that come with it. If you do this, purchase a pattern with vertical panel piecing as close to your measurements as possible. Expect to alter the pattern if you want a perfect fit.

Option 2: Use duct-tape over a t-shirt to create a 3-D model of your body, drawing the pattern pieces directly onto the tape on your body and then cutting them out. If you do this, you will still want to reduce the waist slightly before actually making your corset, and expect to alter the pattern for a perfect fit because it may not take into account ideal waist placement.

Option 3: You can scale up one of the patterns from my scale pattern tutorial. Again, expect to alter the pattern if you want a perfect fit.

Your Body Measurements

Measuring accurately is very important to achieve the best fitting pattern from the start. Even if you have never taken your measurements before, all that is required is a little time and care and a friend who is willing to help. When in doubt double-check, or even triple-check. Take the extra time, because if the measurements are not accurate you can spend all the time you want on the pattern and your corset won’t fit when you’re done.

For detailed instructions, see How to Measure for a Corset.

Mock-up

To make certain the pattern fits you will want to make a mock-up. However, if you use mock-up materials that are weaker or have more bias stretch than your final core fabric, you will not get an accurate fit from your mock-up. Thus, ideally you will want to use the same material for your mock-up as the core of your finished corset. If you use an alternate material for your mock-up keep that in mind when you are fitting, and consider using two layers of alternate material to help it hold shape.

To make the mock-up use the instructions for making your final corset. Boning does not need to be secured in place, but it does need to be present. To try it on use fewer grommets or use eyelet tape. The mock-up does not need to be edged or finished in any way.

Mark alterations directly onto the mock-up and then alter the pattern pieces accordingly.

Pick Your Cover Material

Just about anything can be used as cover material for a corset, but some materials are easier to use than others. For a first corset try to pick a material that is crisp, can’t be seen through, and does not fray easily. If you do pick a material that frays, immediately after cutting out your pieces stitch the outside edges of each piece using a small stitch length and slight zig-zag. This will help prevent the cover from unraveling while you work. If you choose a material that is very supple, you may want to stabilize it with iron-on interfacing before cutting out your pieces.

Another consideration in cover material is pattern. Corsets with bold patterns or bold strips can look stunning, but they usually require very careful cutting and pattern matching to achieve a fantastic finish. This takes extra material, extra time, and extra precision. A bold pattern corset that lacks pattern matching is as obvious from a distance as a bold pattern corset that is perfectly matched. If you choose a subtle stripe or a small pattern, imprecise or nonexistent pattern matching will be hard to see, if it’s noticeable at all.

For the illustration corset I chose a solid brown herringbone drapery fabric. It is slightly supple, impossible to see through, and frays slightly. The herringbone pattern creates the visual appearance of vertical stripes without needing to worry about pattern matching.

Cut Out Your Materials

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You will need at least two layers of material for this method to work. In most cases, that will be one layer of core material and one layer of cover material. You can add in other layers, like a second layer of core material, lining material, or a second layer of cover material. The only limitation is bulk at the seams. If your core material is thick and your cover material is thick, like most upholstery fabrics, you may find that if you add in more layers your seams are too thick to fit in your sewing machine.

For the illustrations I cut out one layer of core material (coutil), one layer of cover material (drapery fabric), and one layer of lining material (white muslin).

I included a busk, so for the core and cover materials I cut one Panel 6 on the fold and two Panel 6 with seam allowance. There is no lining for Panel 6. If the front was solid (no busk), I would cut two Panel 6 core on the fold, one Panel 6 cover on the fold, and one Panel 6 lining on the fold. If a solid Panel 6 has two core layers you can stitch boning channels directly into the center front of the corset to give it stability. If only one core layer is used in a solid front, boning tape must be used to hold the boning.

For Panels 2, 3, 4, and 5 I cut two core pieces, two cover pieces, and two lining pieces.

The lining for Panel 1 does not include the extra allowance for fold-over. I cut two cover pieces including allowance and two core pieces including allowance.

Be sure to transfer all marks to your pieces, including waist point, waist matching marks, and top indicator. On Panel 1 also be sure to mark where the fold-over allowance starts.

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New Tutorial – Drafting an Underbust Corset From Scale

Corsets, Free Clothing Patterns, Sewing, Tutorials No Responses »

Feb 172013

By Sidney Eileen >> Drafting an Underbust Corset From Scale

I am continuing to work my way through, posting my existing material from my computer. Next up will be a full series of tutorials, start-to-finish drafting and making a single-core, welt-seam method underbust corset with cover. This is a piece I wrote in February of 2012 for inclusion in a steampunk project book, but publication fell through for reasons that had nothing to do with my piece. That means I am now free to do with it as I please, and I am choosing to post it online for free. All I ask is that you take a few minutes to read about my request for aid paying for medical treatment, and then share or donate as you are able. The crowdfunding campaign is to Help Me Defeat the Dread Lyme, and I need help to get medical treatment so I can continue making new things and writing new material.

The first part of that material is something I’ve been asked for time and time again, a piece on pattern drafting. This only begins to scratch the surface of the subject of corset pattern drafting, but starting from scale patterns and pattern modification is a great way to cut your teeth on the subject. By starting with a scale or other existing pattern, you don’t have to guess about shape, and can familiarize yourself with how the lines of the pattern affect the final design of the corset.

Drafting an Underbust Corset from Scale

This tutorial walks you through the process of taking a scale underbust pattern and transforming it into a full-size pattern, altering it as needed to fit your measurements. Included are four vertical-panel underbust patterns you can use to create your own pattern. The alteration information in this tutorial can also be used to help you modify a commercial pattern to fit.

Drafting an Underbust Corset from Scale

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I use inches in the description because that is the measurement scale I work with the most often. The scale patterns are marked with a grid, not with specific measurement marks, so you can count the squares in centimeters instead of inches. If you are working in centimeters, when in the instructions it says to round to the nearest 1/4″, or add/subtract in 1/4″ increments, instead round/modify by 1cm or 1/2cm increments.

By Sidney Eileen >> Drafting an Underbust Corset From Scale

Pattern-Making Supplies

Whether you self-draft, work from scale, or start from a commercial pattern, you will need some pattern-making supplies. On the cheap end you can use a pencil, tissue paper, tape, any ruler, a length of string, and a basic calculator. On the expensive end you can use a pencil, butcher paper or pattern drafting paper, tape, a large clear ruler, a flexible ruler, and a graphing calculator.

The Pattern

In this tutorial I have included four scale patterns for you to work with, or you can work from a scale pattern from elsewhere. Many books on corsets will contain scale patterns and photos of finished corsets. Scale patterns can also be found on the internet from time to time, and in patent databases. No matter where you start for your pattern, expect to alter it if you want a perfect fit.

Your Body Measurements

Take your measurements. Be sure to take the measurements described on my How to Measure for a Corset page. The instructions in this tutorial assume you are working from the same measurements I use.

You want your finished corset to be barely snug at the top and bottom, thereby avoiding muffin-top or looking like an overstuffed sausage. You will need some waist reduction or the corset will shift and chafe when worn, but exactly how much is comfortable will vary from person to person. 10% is typical for a light-lace corset, and a safe number for a first-time corset. I also strongly advise leaving a 2”-3” gap in the back for fit adjustments when wearing.

The waist of your corset should fall somewhere between your natural waist and smallest waist. If you place the waist of the corset lower than your natural waist, as you move around the corset will have a tendency to try and travel to your natural waist. However, if the waist of the corset is at your natural waist and your smallest waist is significantly smaller, the uneven compression can cause discomfort and the corset may travel towards the smallest waist. In general, favor the natural waist unless the smallest waist is much smaller. If you can’t decide, put it half-way between and reduce the waist measurement based on the larger waist. After wearing your creation a couple times you will have a better feeling for how your body wears a corset and what might help your next corset be more comfortable.

To figure out your waist reduction, take your waist measurement and move the decimal place to the left by one number. That means if your waist measurement is 30”, you will reduce by 3”, making your corset waist 27”. If your waist measurement is 25”, you will reduce by 2.5”, making your corset waist 22.5”. If the number you get sounds scary, add back a bit. The lacing gap in the back will allow you to cinch tighter or let it out as needed for a more comfortable fit.

Corset patterns usually show ½ of the body, expecting your left and right halves to be symmetrical. To find out what the measurements of the pattern are, simply add up the width of the pattern pieces at the height you want to measure. Be very careful you do not measure the seam allowance. Add 1”-1.5” to allow for the lacing gap. Multiply the total by 2. Compare that number to your measurements and choose the closest pattern for your starting point.

Sample Patterns

For simplicity, I am describing underbust corset patterns for four generalized body types: Square, Ample Hips, Curvy, and Men’s. All sample patterns are scaled to the same waist measurement for easy comparisons between the types, and so if the upper shape from one pattern and the hip shape from another work for your shape, you can combine them.

There is no seam allowance on the scale patterns given below. Read on and you’ll find out how to alter the patterns and add seam allowance.

I based my draft on a scale of 5 squares = 1 inch, but one of the wonderful things about scale patterns is you can use whatever marker you want. If you are making a larger corset, you can use 3 squares = 1 inch, resulting in a waist of 33″-36″. If you are making a smaller corset, you can use 5 squares = 1 inch, resulting in a waist of 20″-23″. If you are working in metric, making 2 squares = 1 cm gives you a waist of 50cm-58cm.

Square

This body type is characterized by very slight differences in circumference measurements along the torso. This proportion works well for straight or slight figures, and many plus-sized figures. This type of corset shape will also work for most men, but unlike the specific men’s pattern the curves are intended to give a feminine silhouette. The measurements for the sample pattern are underbust 28”-31”, waist 25”-28”, hip 30”-33”. The smaller measurements are with no lacing gap, and the larger with 3″ lacing gap.

Click for Large

Ample Hips

This corset type is for women who have no visual smallest waist, resulting in a reduced waist measurement that is very similar to the underbust measurement and a hip measurement that creates a plentiful curve. This will work best for many pear-shaped and plus-sized figures. The measurements for the sample pattern are underbust 26”-29”, waist 25”-28”, hip 32”-35”. The smaller measurements are with no lacing gap, and the larger with 3″ lacing gap.

Click for Large

Curvy

This corset type is for women who have a naturally curvy figure, where even a small reduction in the waist measurement creates dramatic curves both above and below the waist. The measurements for the sample pattern are underbust 29”-32”, waist 25”-28”, hip 36”-39”. The smaller measurements are with no lacing gap, and the larger with 3″ lacing gap.

Click for Large

Men’s

This type of corset is shaped to give a more masculine silhouette while cinching in slightly and ensuring a flat abdomen. The measurements for the sample pattern are underbust 28”-31”, waist 25”-28”, hip 30”-33”. The smaller measurements are with no lacing gap, and the larger with 3″ lacing gap.

Click for Large

How to Make a Corded Regency Corset

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This tutorial will walk you through the process I used to create a full-length corded Regency corset with a busk pocket and period style fan lacing. This is one type of support garment worn during the Regency period, roughly 1800-1815, and a common choice for modern costumers seeking to reproduce the fashions of the Regency and early Victorian. Other options for the Regency era include short stays, transitional stays with bust cups, and a wrap-around similar to a modern bra. The Oregon Regency Society has posted an excellent article giving an overview of the different foundation types used historically, as well as a lot of other excellent information.

For ideas on how to shape and decorate your corded corset, I have a Pin Board on Pinterest specifically featuring Women’s Regency Undergarments. Other excellent sources of information and inspiration are regency-specific blogs, and online museum collections.

This particular corset was not based upon a single extant corset, but instead drew upon aspects of several different extant corsets. Most corsets made in this general style will have a solid front panel, two back panels, and may or may not have a side panel as well. All the examples I saw had gores for the bust, and shoulder straps. Most examples I saw had a little boning, but most of the structure was provided by cording. In an effort to make this corset machine washable, I decided to use ONLY cording, with no actual boning. If you want to make your corded corset machine washable, be sure to pre-wash all the materials in hot water and avoid using steel boning.

This corset is plus sized, made with five panels total (one front, two side, and two back). The outside cover is cotton drill (a finely woven twill fabric), the core layer is coutil (not historically accurate, but works very well), and the lining is cotton muslin. The cording is cotton twist cord (linen cord also works nicely). I also used buttonhole thread for detailing, and silver-colored grommets.

Scale concept sketch of the regency corset, showing shape and piecing.

This is a self-drafted corset. There are a number of different commercial patterns available, and scale patterns showing the piecing may be found in books and online for those seeking to draft their own pattern. If you use a commercial pattern, pick on that is as close as possible to your natural measurements, especially at the hip and bust. The waist will need to be a little smaller than your natural waist. Typical light-lacing is a 10% reduction of the waist measurement, and will be comfortable for most people.

Note that in the sketch above it is marked with the vertical placement of hip, waist, underbust, and bust. Take note of these distances on yourself and modify the pattern vertically so its bust, underbust, waist, and hip match up to your own. If these are off, the corset won’t fit and won’t be comfortable.

Make a Mock-up

Create a mock-up of your corset to make sure it fits before going to the trouble of making a finished garment. There are people who can successfully size corsets using a muslin mock-up, but I honestly have no idea how they do it. I can’t get a proper fit off a muslin because of the difference in fabric stability. Muslin may not be “stretchy” fabric, but it does have give, and if put under tension it will pull out to a greater diameter than coutil or even cotton duck. Cotton duck will work, but be aware that it has a lot of bias stretch, so if you have a lot of hip spring (added circumference at the hip compared to the waist), that bias stretch will give a false fit compared to coutil. I found this out the hard way. If you do use cotton duck, I recommend two layers to help combat this problem.

Ideally, I recommend making the mock-up out of the same or an equivalent material to the core material you intend to use on the finished garment. I understand coutil is expensive, but this is the only way I have found to ensure an accurate fit without dozens of mock-ups.

If you have another method that works for you, by all means use that method. There’s more than one way to make a good corset.

Cut out all your pieces. Since I am using coutil, it will be one layer, and I won’t be finishing any of the edges.

First, insert the triangular gores into the bust of the front panel. I have a separate tutorial posted about how to do this.

How to Insert a Triangular Gore into a Slash - Will open in a new window so you can return here when you are done with that step.

Stitch together all the panels.

Either grommet the opening, or use grommet tape. I prefer grommet tape because it’s so much faster and easier.

Corded Regency Corset mock-up.

This is a photo of the mock-up, after it was returned by the customer. If you ever get a mock-up for a custom item, keep this in mind. I have never received back a mock-up so well modified and descriptive. Safety pins are holding folds of fabric to make the corset smaller where needed. It’s drawn on or folded back where it needs to be shorter, and where the armpit needs to be a little larger. Extra material is pinned on at the bust and the back of the hip to show where the pieces should be extended. To top it off, she very boldly marked the part of the shoulder strap which she would like padded out for more comfort.

Click for Larger

Modify your pattern as needed by the mock-up. If you have made a lot of changes, you may want to do another mock-up before proceeding to the real garment. Despite the apparent severity of the modifications to this mock-up, they are so clearly marked that I was able to modify the pattern with complete confidence and proceed to the next stage.

Account for width lost to cording

You WILL lose some width in the pattern to the cording, because the fabric must go around the cords and will not be laying perfectly flat. If you are doing very little cording (little waist reduction or mostly quilted), or are petite, this isn’t a problem. However, if you are doing a lot of cording like I did on this corset, it can be a significant loss. Horizontal cords will shorten the height of the corset. Vertical cords will shorten the circumference. Basically, I lost about 1/4″ of fabric width for every 20 cords. In the case of this corset, it made the bust slightly tighter on each cup, and I had to add 1/4″ to the width of the side panel and 1/4″ to the width of the back panel. Add the extra width where there will be lots of cording, but be sparing. If your corset is small, the difference may not be significant enough to worry about even if you plan to cord the entire garment.

How to Add a Bust Ribbon to a Corset

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The bust ribbon is a small ribbon along the top of the bust which can be tightened to cinch in the top of the bust slightly, or just tied into a nice little bow for decoration. This tutorial shows the bust ribbon added to a corded Regency style corset, and I used narrow silk taffeta.

Edge the entire top edge of the corset before adding the bust ribbon so pulling the ribbon will not create friction and potentially fray the raw edge of the corset inside the edging. By doing this the bust ribbon can also later be removed or replaced without causing any harm to the corset.

This is an easy detail to add to a corset which is otherwise already finished.

Regency Corset - Assembly 50

My edging ribbon is not quite wide enough to cover the existing edging, so I stitched two lengths of ribbon edge to edge. Ideally, you will want an edging ribbon or bias tape which is naturally wide enough.

You need to leave a small hole at the center of the bust where the ribbon will emerge, so, following the same procedure as for normal edging, start just to the side of center and stitch until you are under the armpit. Leave roughly one inch of edging ribbon loose under the armpit.

Repeat the procedure on the other side, leaving a hole about 1/4″ or 1cm wide. This photo shows two silk taffeta bust ribbons threaded through the hole.

Alternatively, you can make two small holes with a small stitched area between, threading the ribbons each through one hole. If you do this, the knot for the bow will stay outside the edging. If it emerges through a single hole, the knot will pull back into the edging when it is tied, leaving just the loops and tails of the bow visible.

Regency Corset - Assembly 53

To secure the outer end of the bust ribbon, stitch it to the loose end of the edging ribbon. I used a zig-zag stitch and went back and forth several times to make sure it will hold.

This photo shows the silk bust ribbon stitched to the cotton edging ribbon and threaded through the hole.

The new layer of binding around the edging ribbon is finished exactly the same as normal edging, but be careful not to catch the bust ribbon in the stitching. The outer ends are folded under, but not stitched. That way if the bust ribbon needs to be replaced, new ribbon may be threaded in from the armpit area and secured by hand.

This photo shows the bust ribbon pulled slightly, so there is some gathering along the top edge.

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How to Make a Simple Busk Pocket

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This tutorial was created using photographs from the corded Regency corset. It shows how to make a very basic busk pocket, applied to the front of a corset which does not have boning in the busk area. If you are adding a busk pocket to a fully boned corset (like fully boned stays), it must be added after boning, which cannot be stitched through. That means you must either leave unboned space where the pocket will be stitched down, or attach it by hand.

The pocket on this particular corset opened on the bottom of the corset, and laces hold the busk in place. If you are orienting your pocket to open up, just reverse the orientation when you attach it to the corset. The busk pocket can also be added on the inside of the corset instead of the outside.

I highly recommend finishing the edge of the corset where the pocket will open. The pocket does add some bulk at that area, and it can make it more difficult to smoothly attach the edging unless you are edging entirely by hand.

To make the busk pocket, cut a rectangle of cover fabric longer than the front of the corset is tall. The width is 2x the width of the busk, plus 2x seam allowance, plus 1/4″. That will give you a pocket which is about 1/4″ wider than the busk, providing room to stitch it down without making your pocket too small to fit the busk.

Regency Corset Assembly 33

Fold the piece of fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch the open sides together.

Press open the seam, placing it at the center of the panel.

Regency Corset Assembly 34

Stitch it closed at one end.

Regency Corset Assembly 35

Turn it and press. The closed end is to the left in this photo

Regency Corset Assembly 44

Mark the body of the corset and the busk pocket cover for eyelets. Make sure they will match up when finished. The bottom edge is bound before creating the eyelets, so there is no fear of the eyelets or pocket creating bulk too close to the bottom edge.

For the bottom of the busk pocket I decided to make hand-worked eyelets using a looped buttonhole stitch. You can use any buttonhole stitch you want, or use metal eyelets.

Looped Buttonhole Stitch Eyelet - 2

The first step when hand-stitching eyelets is to define them. Then create a running stitch just outside the circumference of the hole size you want. The running stitch will help the eyelet hold its shape, and provide a guide while you create the buttonhole stitches.

Looped Buttonhole Stitch Eyelet - 2

Open the eyelet hole with an awl. Depending upon the material, you may need to slash the material inside the eyelet hole so that it will evenly fold back away from the hole. I had to do that for the busk pocket because the material was too thick to nicely open with just the tapered awl.

Looped Buttonhole Stitch Eyelet - 3

Each stitch starts from the back side of the eyelet, pulled through to the front. These stitches define the outer edge of the eyelet hole, so try to keep your stitches an even distance out from the circle of running stitches.

Looped Buttonhole Stitch Eyelet - 4

Next drop your needle down through the eyelet and have it emerge to the front next to the prior stitch, maintaining your distance from the circle of running stitches. Make sure the tail end of the previous stitch goes around the outside of the needle before dropping through the eyelet hole. It is that loop which creates the border edge. To finish the stitch just pull the thread tight (as tight as you can) and you will be back at the photo above.

If you do not want to create the edge border to your eyelets, just leave out the loop around the needle.

Looped Buttonhole Stitch Eyelet - 5

When you have completed the eyelet, instead of dropping the needle through the eyelet hole, run it down through the same place the very first stitch emerged. This will create a loop to complete the edging. As you can see, it’s been a while since I’ve done this and the circle is not even. Practice is the only way to fix this problem.

Regency Corset Assembly - 46

The busk pocket cover, with both eyelets stitched.

Regency Corset Assembly - 47

Pin the busk cover in place down the center front of the corset.

Regency Corset Assembly - 48

Topstitch the busk pocket cover, staying as close as possible to the sides.

Regency Corset Assembly - 49

Close the busk pocket on the unfinished edge with a narrow zig-zag stitch. The photo is from the outside of the corset, but I actually stitched this with the lining up so I could see the border edge of the corset.

Trim it to the edge of the corset, and you’re ready to continue with the next step of your project.

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How to Make Regency Period Fan Lacing

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This fan lacing tutorial is based on two reference photos showing a Regency period example of fan lacing. In the photo it appears that the lacing is sewn directly into the fabric used to pull the lacing tight. I opted to change this detail so the lacing could be adjusted or changed out if needed, without having to completely re-make the tie. I am including the photos here for educational purposes, so you fine folks can see exactly what I’m talking about.

One of the wonderful things about this method of fan lacing is that it doesn’t require any of the expensive accessories required of modern fan lacing. That means it’s more economical for the corset-maker on a budget, and there’s no reason you can’t fancy up your ties by making them out of pretty material or embellishing them.

Fan Lacing Construction - 1

Each tie consists of two layers of cotton drill fabric, one short length of cotton taffeta ribbon, and one longer length of silk satin ribbon

Fan Lacing Construction - 2

The cotton ribbon is pinned into the wider end of the fabric, right sides together.

Fan Lacing Construction - 3

I used a 1/2″ seam, and when I got to the narrow end, I sandwiched in the silk satin ribbon.

Fan Lacing Construction - 4

I left a large hole along one side of each tie so they could be turned. You may trim your fabric if desired. I did not trim.

Fan Lacing Construction - 5

The ribbons make it fairly easy to turn the ties. Just pull them out to fully turn the points. I then stitched the holes closed by hand using a hidden running stitch. If you want, you can top stitch around the edges with a sewing machine instead.

Hidden Running Stitch

To create the hidden running stitch, make each stitch alternately through each folded in fabric. The finished appearance is very similar to a machine stitch.

After that, lace the back of the corset, running the laces through the loops on the ties.

Click for Larger View

In this photo there is quite a bit of extra length where each section of ribbon is tied off, creating the extra muddle of loose ribbon on the left of the photo. This is so I could adjust the lengths once I laced it on something and could see exactly where the ribbons were too long or too short. Each ribbon length ties four grommets (two rows of grommets), except for the very bottom grommets, which are alone because I have an odd number of grommets on each side of the corset.

Tackling Those Tiny Wrinkles

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Feb 112013

A friend recently made her first self-patterned corset, and was asking me about how to avoid those pesky little wrinkles the happen at the hip and bust. In my experience, they are usually caused by one of two things (or sometimes both).

It can be caused by improperly placed grain of the fabric. Due to the outward spring of the hip (or the bust), it alters the line of greatest pressure such that it’s not perfectly horizontal. Instead, the pressure on the panel angles towards the apex of the curve. If the bias of the fabric falls exactly along this stress line, it creates wrinkles, like pulling on the bias of a square of fabric. There will always be some bias stretch along this area, but if you have a lot of hip spring, it can be worthwhile to tilt the grain of the fabric slightly so it’s not full bias at the front of the hip or the side of the bust (thankfully, with most vertical panel patterns, tilting one also tilts the other very nicely). Another way to solve the problem is to use a hip gore, which I’m pretty sure is why on extant Victorian pieces it is so common to see gores used for corsets with a dramatic hip spring. This problem is also minimized if the next cause is taken into consideration.

Wrinkles along curves can also be caused by too little pressure underneath. That is, the stuff that is the wearer is not sufficient to hold out the form of the corset, so it collapses slightly and tugs in ways it’s not meant to do. If there is a lot of pressure underneath, you won’t see any wrinkles even if the line of greatest pressure is along the bias. So, soften the curve slightly, reducing space where you see wrinkles. Alternately, you can pad it out with some soft foam.

Keeping those two things in mind can help, whether you are drafting your own pattern, or modifying an existing pattern in search of that perfect fit.

Wrinkles on the hip of a corset, caused by improperly placed bias. No amount of padding will solve this. They would likely have been eliminated if I had tilted the bias slightly counter-clockwise.

How to Measure for a Corset

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Measuring accurately is very important to achieve the best fitting pattern or corset from the start. Even if you have never taken your measurements before, all that is required is a little time and care and a friend who is willing to help. When in doubt double-check, or even triple-check. Take the extra time, because if the measurements are not accurate you can spend all the time you want on a pattern and your corset won’t fit when you’re done.

Most custom corset makers will use their own set of measurements, so if you are purchasing a corset look for the directions provided by the maker or retailer. I am providing these instructions to show which measurements I use for my own sewing and why, in case they will be helpful to others, and as a reference for anyone drafting or modifying patterns based upon my tutorials.

Wear clothing that is skin-tight so the measurements will match your body, not your clothes. Also wear a comfortable brassier. When you are taking the measurements stand with your feet square to your body and in a straight, relaxed posture. Your posture does change your measurements, as does twisting the torso. This is why it is critical that a second person take your measurements.

You will need a measuring tape for sewing or tailoring, available at any fabric or craft store, and most drug stores. If you wish to mark the locations where you take the measurements, masking tape usually works best. You’ll also need a pen and paper to write down the measurements.

For all measurements the tape should be held barely snug, not tight. Vertical measurements are taken relative to the underbust because it is usually an easier level to keep track of than the exact position of the waist.

Click for Larger View

Bust Circumference – This measurement should be taken at the fullest part of the bust, which is usually across the nipples. This measurement is only used on overbust style corsets.

Underbust Circumference – This measurement should be taken directly under the bust. If your bra has an underwire, you may want to remove the bra for this measurement.

Lowest Rib Circumference – This measurement should be taken at the height of the lowest part of your rib cage. To find the bottom of your rib cage, run your hand down your side and follow your ribs down towards your kidneys. If you are plus-sized it might be difficult to find, so take the measurement roughly where you think it is or ignore it altogether. This measurement is important on thinner individuals, because it helps prevent uncomfortable pinching of the rib cage.

Smallest Waist Circumference – This is the place where your torso is smallest in circumference. Depending upon your body type and weight, it is possible that the smallest waist will be anywhere from just below the underbust to a bit below the lowest rib measure. If you have no visually definable waist ignore this measurement and just use your Natural Waist instead.

*) Natural Waist Circumference (not on diagrams) – To find your natural waistline stand straight up with your feet shoulder-width apart. Lean to the side and put your finger where your torso bends. Do the same to the other side, and repeat until you are certain of the location. Take the circumference and distance measurements at this height on your torso.

Hip Circumference – This is not necessarily your full hip measurement. When standing, lift your leg and place your finger where the leg articulates into the pelvis. Take the hip measurement at this height.

Bust-to-Underbust Distance – This is the vertical distance from the bust to underbust, taken to the side of the bust or under the armpit. This measurement is only used for overbust style corsets.

Underbust-to-Rib Distance – This is the vertical distance from the underbust to where the lowest rib measurement was taken. Along the side is usually the easiest place to take an accurate measurement.

Underbust-to-Smallest-Waist Distance – This is the vertical distance from the underbust to smallest waist.

*) Underbust-to-Natural-Waist Distance (not on diagrams) – This is the vertical distance from the underbust to natural waist.

Underbust-to-Point-of-Hip Distance – This is the vertical distance from the underbust to the highest part of the pelvis.

Underbust-to-Hip Distance – This is the vertical distance from the underbust to the articulation point of the hip joint.

You want your finished corset to be barely snug at the top and bottom, thereby avoiding muffin-top or looking like an overstuffed sausage. You will want some waist reduction or the corset will shift and chafe when worn, but exactly how much is comfortable will vary from person to person. 10% is typical for a light-lace corset, and usually a safe number for a first-time corset. I also strongly advise leaving a 2”-3” gap in the back for fit adjustments when wearing.

If you are making your own corset, after wearing your creation a couple times you will have a better feeling for how your body wears a corset and what might help your next corset be more comfortable.

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