May 212010
 

I’m primarily working on the 1880′s overbust corset, which needs to be out in the mail next week.  Currently the panels are about half assembled.  The cover material is a cream dupioni silk, and it will have light blue boning channel stitches, flossing, and lace along the top, plus a little embroidery.

I am taking detailed photos as I make this corset, so even though I don’t have time for a detailed construction blog at the moment, hopefully I will put together a tutorial later on.  We’ll see how things work out.

Other things in my life with no relation to the sewing have severly limited my sewing time in the past couple weeks.  As a result I have put off the machine washable corset dress project (which I have been wanting to make since January) and have not yet taken photos of the other three finished projects on my work list.

I will be at Maker Faire tomorrow, and a friend and I will be wearing our new corsets.  If I don’t have a chance to take photos today, I am hoping it will work out to take them sometime tomorrow at the event.  Even if I don’t have nice, formal photos, I should have a few snap shots to post.

I also finally received my new business cards, so no longer will I be left looking like a dufus when someone asks for my card. ;)

Canvas surtout – 100% done (no photos yet)

Steampunk underbust – 100% done (no photos yet)

Adjustable underbust corset – 100% done (no photos yet)

1880′s silk overbust corset – In progress

Victorian silk overbust corset – 3rd mock-up drafted

Black tight-lacing underbust with garters – Not started

White tight-lacing underbust – Not started

Merry Widow corset pattern – Not started

Victorian overbust corset pattern with low hips and shoulder straps – Not started

Traditional/Punk Rock fusion Wedding Gown – Planning/mock-up stage, measurements received

Machine washable corset dress – Pattern drafted, postponed

May 122010
 

Black ribbon corset – 100% done – waiting to mail

1880′s silk overbust corset – 4th mock-up mailed

Victorian silk overbust corset – 2nd mock-up mailed

Canvas surtout – 100% done (no photos yet)

Steampunk underbust – 100% done

Machine washable corset dress – Pattern drafted

Adjustable underbust corset – Pattern drafted

Black tight-lacing underbust with garters – Not started

White tight-lacing underbust – Not started

Merry Widow corset pattern – Not started

Traditional/Punk Rock fusion Wedding Gown – Planning/mock-up stage

My primary focus in the next week and a half is the 1880′s corset and the three personal sewing projects for my portfolio (machine-washable, adjustable, and steampunk corsets).  If the Victorian overbust requires a third mock-up, I am also hoping to make and mail that.

The completed steampunk underbust is a corset that fits me, so there will be nice photos in the next couple weeks.  In the meantime, for those of you who follow my blog, here’s a sneak peak of the corset.  It’s inspired by the “health” corsets of the late Victorian and Edwardian.  It’s made from plain coutil, with a “belt” of leather.  Including the grommets on the lacing panel, it has 104 grommets total.

May 112010
 

I drew up a quick sketch and some basic tips on LiveJournal in regards to corset pattern drafting.  It’s not much, but for what it’s worth:

I actually sat down with a chemical engineer friend to confirm the practicality of using a mathematical formula to determine the amount of hip-spring to draft into any corset. The final consensus was that an accurate equation would require either calculus or linear algebra, and an estimate equation using trigonometry was no better (and possibly worse) than guess-estimating.


I would strongly recommend a six-panel or greater pattern for an overbust corset, because it will more easily give you smoother curves over the hip.

No, the curves are normally not identical on both sides of a seam. The only time I make them identical is when the total width increase for each side is just 1/4″. When the curve is greater than that, you end up with something akin to a beach ball, where the seam has a ridge to it. I usually offset them by 1/4″-1/2″, but it depends upon the particular pattern.

Part of the trick to pattern drafting is to be able to look at the pieces and visualize the three-dimensional shape it will create. The human torso is not perfectly round. Most of the curve is at the side, with a little bit at the back. The curve on the spine is also a different shape from the curve at the side. In visualizing, or just looking at photos of existent corsets, look not just at the shape the corset creates, but the relative widths of the pieces and where the connect.

May 112010
 

Updated on the concept sketch for the plus-sized underbust.  I was a goof-ball and didn’t look at my notes before drawing up the first sketch.  It’s supposed to be front-lacing, not busk.  The customer also decided she liked the look of curved shaping into the garters.

May 052010
 
Outside View

Today I finished a silk cover, fully boned, tabbed Elizabethan corset.  I did not take fully detailed pictures since I was pressed for time during construction and the size of the corset made the logistics of using it as a detailed example piece difficult.  Next time I make a corset like this one I plan to take detailed photos and blog about it.  I am also planning to write fully detailed instructions regarding how to draft such a corset.  I have now made conical corsets for a large enough range of sizes and body shapes that I am confident I can write instructions that will work for just about anybody.

When I set out to make this corset, I looked at the piecing and boning patterns for the Effigy corset and various conical corsets from the 1700′s and 1800′s.  One of the odd things about the Effigy corset is the vertical boning continues to the back of the corset.  Given the conical shape, this results in the boning at the sides slanting in a backward direction.  Looking at photos of women wearing re-creations of that corset, this seems to throw the posture, encouraging the pelvis to lean forward.  Given that every corset from the following two centuries has side boning that is either vertical or forward-leaning (never back-slanting), I decided that it would make for a more practical and comfortable corset if I did not exactly imitate the Effigy piecing.

This particular corset also has enough of a slant to it that I was concerned about having the full boning meet on only one seam, which would have resulted in a massive number of short bones meeting on the angle.

Therefor, I decided to use a three-panel piecing, with the side panel vertically boned, and imitate the tab pattern from the Effigy corset.  I say imitate, because this corset is so much larger than the Effigy corset if I had only used three tabs per side, they would have each been about 8″ wide.

Outside View

Inside View

May 032010
 

How to Make a Mesh Corset Using Sport Mesh
This tutorial demonstrates in detail how to make an underbust or waist cincher Victorian corset using a synthetic sport mesh. Mesh corsets were made in the late Victorian, but they were constructed using strong, natural-fiber mesh, like linen canvas for embroidery.

Enjoy :)

Apr 302010
 

This is the final blog entry regarding the construction of this particular black satin ribbon corset.  It covers how to finish the grommet panel at the back of the corset.

 

Fold and stitch down the seam allowance on the loose side of the grommet panel.  Be sure to fold it up with the corset facing up.

Cut strips of ribbon a little longer than the panel.  Stitch one side of the ribbon to the seam allowance, just inside the edge of the panel.

Fold the ribbon around the edge of the panel.  The bulk of the ribbon should be over what will be the outside of the panel.  Edge stitch it to the coutil, holding the ribbon tight around the edge.

Stitch down the loose side of the ribbon, holding it flat to the coutil.

Take the next strip of ribbon and stitch it down so it just barely overlaps the first ribbon.  For this corset I only needed two strips of ribbon.  If yours requires more, stitch down the loose edge and then ad another ribbon in the same manner.  These ribbons are to cover the coutil, so the exact configuration is not critical unless you decide it should be for your corset.

When sewing down the last open side, I folded it under and edge stitched it to match the edge of the coutil panel.

Both strips of ribbon are now secured, covering the coutil.

Turning the corset back to right-side-up, I folded the grommet panel in half and edge stitched it closed.

Next I stitched the boning channel on the very outside of the panel.

I left enough room for the grommets, and then stitched two more boning channels, which is all there was room for.

After the boning channels were sewn, I inserted the boning and stitched it in place.

To edge the back panels, I followed the same proceedure as on the busk panels.  I trimmed everything down, cut a small strip of ribbon, and stitched it in place on the outside of the corset.

I folded over the leading edge of the ribbon…

… and tacked it in place.

That way I did not need to worry about the leading edge coming loose while I folded over the following edge and stitched it in place.

After finishing the back panel, all that was left was grommeting and the double-busk.

This is what the corset looked like after all the finishing details.  Related tutorials are How to Grommet By Hand and How to Make a Double-Busk.

Open Flat, Outside Front - no bow

Additional views of this corset may be found in my corset gallery at Black Satin Ribbon Corset, Tight-Lacing.

 

Thank you for reading. ^_^

Apr 192010
 

Continuing work on the double-satin ribbon corset, this part shows how I finished the side panels.

 

I hand-folded the seam allowance for the second coutil layer and prepared to cover it with ribbon.

For this corset, the panel was just slightly wider than the primary ribbon I am using, so I took some narrower black ribbon (7/8″ wide), folded it over the edge of the coutil, and stitched it down.  If you are making your own ribbon corset, figure out a pleasing arrangement of ribbon and stitch it to the coutil panel.

Both edges are covered with the narrow ribbon, and the wide ribbon is waiting to be attached.  All of the ribbon pieces extend about 1″ past the top and bottom edges of the coutil.

I top-stitched the wide ribbon to the coutil panel along its edges.

Inside and outside views.  Looking at the inside, you can barely see the raw edge of the coutil seam allowance.

This photo shows the view from the inside of the corset.  I lined up the coutil with the edge of the corset panel, leaving the extra ribbon hanging.

I top stitched the covered coutil to the panel, being very careful to keep everything lined up properly.

This photo shows the cover layer stitched to the corset along its edges.

After it is in place, I marked the center of the panel with chalk.

Then I lock-stitched the first boning channel.  Lock-stitching is when you finish a line of stitching, turn the garment around in the sewing machine, and stitch back over the exact line of stitching.  I do this two or three times whenever sewing a boning channel.

Using the center line of stitching as a guide, I stitched 1/4″ boning channels along the entire panel.

I then inserted the boning.

After centering the boning in the panel, I stitched at the ends to secure it in place.

To prep the lining, I cut a piece of broadcloth the same size as the coutil for the panel and hand-folded the seam allowance.

I then lined it up on the inside of the corset and top-stitched it in place, being careful to keep it lined up properly with the panel.  In the photo below, the needle is holding the top end in place, and my left hand is holding the bottom end.  I stopped and double-checked periodically while stitching to make sure it was still where it should be.  I am also stitching about 3/16″ in from the side of the panel so the seam along the lining will be deep enough to catch more easily.  On most of the panels, after making sure the lining was secure I came back and top-stitched again about 1/8″ from the edge, to eliminate some of the loose lining outside the seam.

This image shows the lining after it is attached.

To finish the top and bottom edges, I trimmed the ribbon to about 3/4″, folded it over nicely (to eliminate any loose threads and raw edges) and basted it to itself.  This isn’t technically necessary, but it made life a lot easier on the next step.

Then I turned the corset over, folded the ribbon to the inside, held it tight, and top-stitched 1/4″ from the edge.

This photo shows the inside of the panel after top-stitching.  All raw edges and loose threads are secured underneath the folded-over ribbon.

These photos show the entire panel, finished inside and out.

This is what the corset currently looks like.  I still need to finish the grommet panels, add buttonholes at the busk for a ribbon, and make the lacing panel before it will be entirely finished.

Apr 192010
 

When I went online today I was stunned to have a message letting me know that a metal sculpture artist had used one of my publicly posted corset patterns to make one of his sculptures!

Check it out!  I’m delighted to say the least. ^_^


Metal-corset-01

by *tpenttil on deviantART


Metal-corset-02

by *tpenttil on deviantART

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