Feb 172013
 
Blue Herringbone Irish Dress - QuarterFront View
Blue Herringbone Irish Dress - QuarterFront View

This ensemble is a blue herringbone Elizabethan renaissance Irish dress, reenactment style. The chemise is an Irish style liene, and she is wearing a single underskirt. I drafted and created this piece back in 2000. It is plus-sized.

This ensemble is a blue herringbone Elizabethan renaissance Irish dress, reenactment style. The chemise is an Irish style liene, and she is wearing a single underskirt. I drafted and created this piece in 2000, but took these pictures in February of 2013. It is plus-sized.

The herringbone dress is boned with spring steel, lined with cotton duck, and covered with a polyester blend blue and white herringbone fabric. The sleeves are sewn in at the shoulder, and have button & loop closure at the wrist.

I designed the liene based on research I did at the time. It’s made from approximately 10 yards of yellow cotton broadcloth, has large pocket sleeves, ribbon holding the seam at the top, and a slashed neckline.

The underskirt is a basic gored underskirt, trimmed along the bottom with a line of yellow ribbon. The material is linen-look polyester blend.

Blue Herringbone Irish Dress - Front View Blue Herringbone Irish Dress - Side View Blue Herringbone Irish Dress - QuarterBack View

 

Women’s Renaissance Costumes

 
Blue Herringbone Irish Dress - QuarterFront View

As an historical reenactor and steampunk enthusiast, I use my knowledge of historic garments and research to create whatever I envision. Every item is custom designed and drafted, so anything is possible, from full historic accuracy in any period, to stage or costume quality garments, or entirely new fashions based closely or loosely on historic designs.  Examples of my past work are displayed in this gallery.

My renaissance garments are made for modern reenactment, using a combination of historic research and modern convention.

 

Women's Renaissance Costumes

These costumes are all designed for historic reenactment in the Renaissance. The historic accuracy varies from piece to piece. Exact materials, period, culture, accuracy and other details of each item are written on the image descriptions.

Oct 302012
 
Men's Reversible Vest - Brocade Open

I am finally getting back to work on some sewing projects which I have been sitting on for far too long.  Since it has been a while, it was good to start with a relatively simple project, a bespoke reversible men’s vest.  Considering that the other projects are all corsets, this was a little simpler, with only two layers, four panels, and a lot fewer curves.

This vest is a little larger than the Violin Vest, but based on the same pattern type.  One side is brown cotton canvas, and the other side is a black and brown silk brocade with a diamond pattern.  The accent stripes on both sides were created in the silk brocade.  It has a mandarin collar and eppaulettes.

Men's Reversible Vest - Brocade Closed Men's Reversible Vest - Brocade Open Men's Reversible Vest - Canvas Closed Men's Reversible Vest - Canvas Open

In the next week I am planning to start work on the outstanding corset orders.

Men’s Garments

 
Men's Reversible Vest - Brocade Open

As an historical reenactor and steampunk enthusiast, I use my knowledge of historic garments and research to create whatever I envision. Every item is custom designed and drafted, so anything is possible, from full historic accuracy in any period, to stage or costume quality garments, or entirely new fashions based closely or loosely on historic designs.  Examples of my past work are displayed in this gallery.

Men's Garments

These men's clothing and costume items are each unique, created from a combination of historic pattern and modern inspiration. For details on the individual items, click the thumbnails.

May 122012
 
Corded Regency Corset - Finished

The corded Regency corset is finished, including the fan lacing.  The chemise is also finished, and the bodiced petticoat is very close to being finished.  As soon as all the pieces are ready, I’ll take some nice photos of everything.  Then it will be packed and sent off to the customer.

The fan lacing is based on two reference photos the customer sent me showing a period example of fan lacing.  In the photo it appears that the lacing is sewn directly into the fabric used to pull the lacing tight.  I opted to change this detail so the lacing could be adjusted or changed out if needed, without having to completely re-make the tie.  I am including the photos here for educational purposes, so you fine folks can see exactly what I’m talking about.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 1

Each tie consists of two layers of cotton drill fabric, one short length of cotton taffeta ribbon, and one longer length of silk satin ribbon

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 2

The cotton ribbon is pinned into the wider end of the fabric, right sides together.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 3

I used a 1/2″ seam, and when I got to the narrow end, I sandwiched in the silk satin ribbon.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 4

I left a large hole along one side of each tie so they could be turned.  You may trim your fabric if desired.  I did not trim.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 5

The ribbons make it fairly easy to turn the ties.  I then stitched the holes closed by hand using a hidden running stitch.

 

Corded Regency Corset - Finished

Click for Larger View

This is what the corset looks like laid out flat, after the lacing has all be put onto the corset.

Corded Regency Corset - Finished

Click for Larger View

The lacing ribbon has not been pre-shrunk for the washing machine, and I will want to adjust the lengths once I lace it on something and can see exactly where the ribbons are too long or too short.  Thus, I left quite a bit of extra length when it tied off each section of ribbon, creating the extra muddle of loose ribbon on the left of the photo.  Each ribbon length ties four grommets (two rows of grommet), except for the very bottom grommets, which are alone because I have an odd number of grommets on each side of the corset.

 

The Other Undergarments

I apologize for not taking detailed photos of the construction, but I am very short on time at the moment.  Hopefully I will make another Regency set at a later date and be able to give all the details.

Regency Chemise - Flat

The chemise is finished.    It’s a fairly standard A-frame chemise typical of the Georgian period.  Since the customer is busty, the front was cut wider than the back, so when the shoulders are matched up it gives the illusion of a trapezoidal shape to the front.  The sleeves are wide enough to be comfortable for a more ample figure as well.  The gussets are square.  All internal seams are french seam construction.  The neckline is very narrow, so I finished it by hand using a hidden running stitch on the inside.  The drawstring is silk taffeta ribbon.

 

Bodiced Petticoat - WIP1

The bodiced petticoat is almost finished.  The bodice is two layers of muslin, and will lace closed at the sides.  I was able to find text reference to drop-front bodiced petticoat, and one example of a drop-front Regency dress, but I had no luck finding any photos of similar extant petticoats.  So, I just made my best guess based on what I could find.

The skirt of the petticoat is five panels with a slight flare to each.  Two of the panels are in the front, creating less bulk and providing a slimming silhouette.  Three panels are in the back, with the most gathering toward the center back.  This will give more leg room and help to keep the gown worn over it from sinking into the small of the back.

The two remaining details are eyelets on the sides of the bodice to lace through, and lace trim along the bottom hem.

 

 

Project: Regency Corset

 

Mar 252012
 
On The Trail - Line Art

8.5″x11″ watercolor paper

Today I have been working on a drawing featuring a post-apocalyptic neo-bedouin steampunk woman. At least, that’s my main inspiration personally. I could see her in any near-eastern or multicultural steampunk world. Her outfit is inspired by Renaissance faire tribal fusion belly dance wear, with the addition of a few re-purposed machine parts, moccasins, Native American style warrior feathers, and a really big knife.

 

The line art version scan is black and white, but the real drawing is in dark brown ink, applied with a dip pen nib.

 

Project: On The Trail

Japanese Inspired Costumes

 
roget-looming

As an historical reenactor and steampunk enthusiast, I use my knowledge of historic garments and research to create whatever I envision. Every item is custom designed and drafted, so anything is possible, from full historic accuracy in any period, to stage or costume quality garments, or entirely new fashions based closely or loosely on historic designs.  Examples of my past work are displayed in this gallery.

Costuming for steampunk and cosplay that is inspired by traditional Japanese clothing and designs.

Japanese Inspired Costumes

These costumes are inspired by traditional Japanese clothing. For details on the individual items, click the thumbnails.

Steampunk Outfits

 
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As an historical reenactor and steampunk enthusiast, I use my knowledge of historic garments and research to create whatever I envision. Every item is custom designed and drafted, so anything is possible, from full historic accuracy in any period, to stage or costume quality garments, or entirely new fashions based closely or loosely on historic designs.  Examples of my past work are displayed in this gallery.

Photos of assorted steampunk outfits I have made or put together.

Steampunk Outfits

Some assorted photos of myself and friends in steampunk outfits where I made some or all of the pieces.

Colorful Violin Vest

 
2-brown-onefold

As an historical reenactor and steampunk enthusiast, I use my knowledge of historic garments and research to create whatever I envision. Every item is custom designed and drafted, so anything is possible, from full historic accuracy in any period, to stage or costume quality garments, or entirely new fashions based closely or loosely on historic designs.  Examples of my past work are displayed in this gallery.

This is a uniquely designed reversible steampunk vest, created for Nathaniel Johnstone.

Colorful Violin Vest

This is a fully reversible men's steampunk vest. The brown side is cotton duck, and the reverse is peacock-colored dupioni silk. Two versions are pictured here. One is the prototype and the other is the final version.

I drew the violin design freehand in chalk, and then painted it with Jaquard fabric paints. It is a unique design. I heat-set the paint so it is washing machine friendly. The fabric was also pre-washed in hot water, so the vest may be steamed or ironed as well.

The pattern is an adaptation of several plates from the Handbook of Practical Cutting on the Centre Point System 1866, a book which is apparently now out of print and very expensive. If you are interested in making Mens' Victorian clothing and can afford this book, I highly recommend it. It is a modern edit of a Victorian text describing how to draft and make tailored clothing, first published in 1866 and 1868. Most of the plates are of Men's clothing, but there are also some women's fashions and children's fashions.

The primary plate I referenced is on p. 43, figure 4 and figure 5. I widened the overlap of the double-breast from ~2" to ~4". I also split the back panel into two pieces, referencing some of the basic coat patterns for a proper curve to give a fine tailored shape to the back of the vest. The basic size is the same chest measurement as Nathaniel Johnstone, so I did not to make any alterations to the dimensions on the prototype. However, the patterns in the Handbook are designed for a fashionable dandy silhouette, so on the final version I let out the waist quite a bit for a comfortable modern fit. On the final version I also moved the breast curve seam from the center front to a princess seam location. This allows the double breast to fold more smoothly, and will make it easier to adjust the pattern to fit other people, including women.

For information on commissioning your own vest, please contact me directly.

Steampunk Accessories

 
spats-browntwill2

As an historical reenactor and steampunk enthusiast, I use my knowledge of historic garments and research to create whatever I envision. Every item is custom designed and drafted, so anything is possible, from full historic accuracy in any period, to stage or costume quality garments, or entirely new fashions based closely or loosely on historic designs.  Examples of my past work are displayed in this gallery.

This gallery includes various small clothing items and accessories for steampunk costuming.

Steampunk Accessories

Steampunk costume pieces and accessories. Click on the thumbnails to view the details of each item.

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