Corded Regency Corset - Finished

The corded Regency corset is finished, including the fan lacing.  The chemise is also finished, and the bodiced petticoat is very close to being finished.  As soon as all the pieces are ready, I’ll take some nice photos of everything.  Then it will be packed and sent off to the customer.

The fan lacing is based on two reference photos the customer sent me showing a period example of fan lacing.  In the photo it appears that the lacing is sewn directly into the fabric used to pull the lacing tight.  I opted to change this detail so the lacing could be adjusted or changed out if needed, without having to completely re-make the tie.  I am including the photos here for educational purposes, so you fine folks can see exactly what I’m talking about.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 1

Each tie consists of two layers of cotton drill fabric, one short length of cotton taffeta ribbon, and one longer length of silk satin ribbon

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 2

The cotton ribbon is pinned into the wider end of the fabric, right sides together.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 3

I used a 1/2″ seam, and when I got to the narrow end, I sandwiched in the silk satin ribbon.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 4

I left a large hole along one side of each tie so they could be turned.  You may trim your fabric if desired.  I did not trim.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 5

The ribbons make it fairly easy to turn the ties.  I then stitched the holes closed by hand using a hidden running stitch.

 

Corded Regency Corset - Finished

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This is what the corset looks like laid out flat, after the lacing has all be put onto the corset.

Corded Regency Corset - Finished

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The lacing ribbon has not been pre-shrunk for the washing machine, and I will want to adjust the lengths once I lace it on something and can see exactly where the ribbons are too long or too short.  Thus, I left quite a bit of extra length when it tied off each section of ribbon, creating the extra muddle of loose ribbon on the left of the photo.  Each ribbon length ties four grommets (two rows of grommet), except for the very bottom grommets, which are alone because I have an odd number of grommets on each side of the corset.

 

The Other Undergarments

I apologize for not taking detailed photos of the construction, but I am very short on time at the moment.  Hopefully I will make another Regency set at a later date and be able to give all the details.

Regency Chemise - Flat

The chemise is finished.    It’s a fairly standard A-frame chemise typical of the Georgian period.  Since the customer is busty, the front was cut wider than the back, so when the shoulders are matched up it gives the illusion of a trapezoidal shape to the front.  The sleeves are wide enough to be comfortable for a more ample figure as well.  The gussets are square.  All internal seams are french seam construction.  The neckline is very narrow, so I finished it by hand using a hidden running stitch on the inside.  The drawstring is silk taffeta ribbon.

 

Bodiced Petticoat - WIP1

The bodiced petticoat is almost finished.  The bodice is two layers of muslin, and will lace closed at the sides.  I was able to find text reference to drop-front bodiced petticoat, and one example of a drop-front Regency dress, but I had no luck finding any photos of similar extant petticoats.  So, I just made my best guess based on what I could find.

The skirt of the petticoat is five panels with a slight flare to each.  Two of the panels are in the front, creating less bulk and providing a slimming silhouette.  Three panels are in the back, with the most gathering toward the center back.  This will give more leg room and help to keep the gown worn over it from sinking into the small of the back.

The two remaining details are eyelets on the sides of the bodice to lace through, and lace trim along the bottom hem.

 

 

Project: Regency Corset

 

 
Regency Corset - Finished Outside

“8″ is in quotes because all told this is less than a day’s work, but it happened in very inefficient mini sewing sessions over the past couple weeks.  There were several days when all intentions of sewing were thwarted.

So, at this point the corset is technically finished.  It is entirely sewn and grommeted.  The only detail left is the period fan lacing, and then I will be making the chemise and bodiced petticoat to go with it.

The top edge was trimmed and edged, as described in How to Edge a Corset and, because of the shoulder straps, How to Edge Around Tabs.

 

The next step was to add the bust ribbon, a small silk taffeta ribbon along the front of the bust which can be tightened to cinch in the top of the bust slightly, or just tied into a nice little bow for decoration.

I edged the entire top edge of the corset before adding the bust ribbon so the ribbon would not create friction and potentially fray the raw edge of the corset inside the edging.  It also means the bust ribbon can be removed without causing any harm to the corset.

Regency Corset - Assembly 50

My edging ribbon is not quite wide enough to cover the existing edging, so I stitched to lengths of ribbon edge to edge.

 

Regency Corset - Assembly 51

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I needed to leave a small hole at the center of the bust where the silk ribbon emerges, so, following the same procedure as for normal edging, I started just to the side of center and stitched until I was at the side seam.  Roughly one inch of edging ribbon is left loose at the outer edge.

 

Regency Corset - Assembly 52

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I then repeated the procedure on the other side, leaving a hole about 1/4″ wide.  Here, the two silk taffeta bust ribbons are threaded through the hole.

 

Regency Corset - Assembly 53

To secure the outer end of the bust ribbon, I stitched it to the loose end of the edging ribbon.  I used a zig-zag stitch and went back and forth several times to make sure it will hold.

 

Regency Corset - Assembly 54

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This photo shows the silk bust ribbon stitched to the cotton edging ribbon.

 

Regency Corset - Assembly 55a

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The new layer of edging ribbon is finished exactly the same as normal edging, but I had to be careful not to catch the silk bust ribbon in the stitching.  The outer ends are folded under, but not stitched.  That way if the bust ribbon needs to be replaced, new ribbon may be threaded in from the armpit area and secured by hand.

 

Regency Corset - Assembly 55b

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This photo shows the bust ribbon pulled slightly, so there is some gathering along the top edge.

 

After that, I grommeted the shoulder straps and the back edges.  The shoulder straps are smaller grommets than the back edge.

Regency Corset - Finished Outside

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Regency Corset - Finished Lining

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Project: Regency Corset

 

 
Regency Corset Assembly 43

I worked on the corded regency corset some more yesterday.  The shoulder straps are padded, the lining is attached, the busk pocket is sewn (if not yet attached), and the bottom edge has been bound.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 36

The prepared padding survived the washing machine perfectly, and didn’t even shrink much at all.  In this photo I have trimmed the ends fairly evenly.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 37

This section of padding is trimmed slightly wider than the shoulder strap.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 38

I have centered the padding on the shoulder straps (6″ is the center point), with the smoothly cut edge even with the straight edge of the shoulder straps.  The padding is sandwiched between the core coutil layer and the drill cover layer.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 39

I used a slight zig-zag stitch to secure all the layers along the trimmed edge.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 40

I then came back along the other edge, also stitching close to the edge with a zig-zag.  The purpose of using the zig-zag is so the edge still has all of its bias stretch in case it’s needed at a later point in the sewing.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 41

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This is one of the shoulder straps with the padding layered in, secured, and trimmed.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 42

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After finishing with the padding, I attached the lining to the entire corset.  Again, I used a slight zig-zag stitch close to the edges so they retain their bias stretch.  The back edges are folded under and loose.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 45

After securing along the top and bottom, I secured the lining to the back edges.  The lining needs to completely cover the raw edges of the core and cover, so it is stitched just in from the first cording channel with a hidden running stitch.

 

Hidden Running Stitch

 

To create the hidden running stitch, make each stitch alternately through the body of the corset, and inside the fold of the lining. The finished appearance is very similar to a machine stitch.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 43

Next I trimmed the bottom edge so it was completely smooth, and bound the edge.  Normally I have the edge binding cover the outer 1/4″, but the cotton taffeta ribbon I am using for this corset is too narrow.  Instead I bound the edge just inside from the zig-zag stitches, about 3/16″.

For a detailed tutorial on edge binding, see How to Edge a Corset.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 33

To make the busk pocket, I cut a rectangle of fabric longer than the front of the corset is tall, and 5.75″ wide.  Taking into account the 1/2″ seam allowance, that gives me a finished busk pocket cover which is 2 and 3/8 inches wide, wide enough to be sewn down and hold a 2″ wide busk.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 34

I pressed open the seam and stitched closed one end.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 35

Then I turned it.  The closed end is to the left.

 

Regency Corset Assembly 44

Both the body of the corset and the busk pocket cover are marked for eyelets.  The bottom edge is bound, so there is no fear of the eyelets creating bulk too close to the bottom edge.

 

Project: Regency Corset

 

Linen and Velvet Merry Widow

 
modeled-frontquarter

The Merry Widow corset as it was meant to be, fully boned and functional, but with a modern bra top for a fully modern fashion profile.

This is a merry widow corset I made for myself.  It has a pattern matched linen and velveteen cover, black velveteen gores and cups, a lacing panel, ribbon shoulder straps, and riveted speed-lacing for the front closure.

Fully Boned Basic Renaissance Stays

 
final-back-med

Conical stays with tabs were historically used throughout the 1600′s and 1700′s. The simplest designs are created with the price-conscious reenactor in mind. Fancier designs and subtle variations in silhouette are possible when using complex panel piecing and decorative elements.

These basic “renaissance” stays are all fully boned.

Basic Renaissance (Old Style)

 
final-quarterfront-med

Conical stays with tabs were historically used throughout the 1600′s and 1700′s. The simplest designs are created with the price-conscious reenactor in mind. Fancier designs and subtle variations in silhouette are possible when using complex panel piecing and decorative elements.

These corsets were made several years ago, and I no longer use this construction method.

 
final-back-lrg

Fabric: Two layers of hemp/linen canvas
Boning: 1/4″ flat spring steel bones throughout the entire body of the stays
Piecing: Five panels total to distribute bias stretch
Edging: Organic cotton ribbon edging
Lacing: Offset lacing style
Shoulder Straps: Removable

These plus-sized stays are constructed using modern materials and techniques, to provide the proper fashion silhouette for the modern reenactor seeking a quality garment without breaking the bank. This kind of corset is suitable as a foundation garment for any period of costuming that requires a conical silhouette.

Click to View Full Size

 

 
wip1

These stays are currently on my sewing machine.  The pattern has five panels to distribute the significant amount of bias needed to fit the customer properly.  It is made with two layers of hemp/linen canvas, ready for full boning, and the bottom edge is bound.  I ran short of boning, so I’ll finish this project after more boning arrives at the end of the week.  At that point I will insert the remaining boning, secure it, bind the top edge, and grommet it.  The shoulder straps are removable.

 

 
Back-Lacing Plus-Sized Stays

Sorry updates have been infrequent the last few weeks. I’m now a month into the school semester and starting to get back into the swing of college. I’ve also been having various glitches with the back end of my web site that has made updating a rather tedious endeavor. Thankfully, it seems to be behaving itself this evening. ;)

In other projects, I am starting work on the wedding dress (finally). If my web site continues to behave itself I should start posting in-progress photos tomorrow, with updates every day or two until it’s finished.

I am going to make some flossing diagrams and post a short guide on corset flossing in the next three weeks or so. Once the wedding dress is off in the mail I will also be finishing a set of tutorials on conical corset drafting and the creation of basic Renaissance re-enactment stays. I am planning to teach a workshop on drafting and making costuming Renaissance stays in November or December. More details on that will be posted once the dates are set.

Last weekend I finished another modern Renaissance corset. This one is fully boned with 1/4″ spring steel.

Back-Lacing Plus-Sized Stays
 

The customer who purchased the white tightlacing underbust also purchased a copy of the pattern.  It is a fairly typical, 6-panel underbust Victorian pattern.

The other pattern was commissioned solely as a pattern.  It is a plus-sized, sweetheart overbust, with low hips and shoulder straps.  She is long-torsoed as well, so the pattern is particularly large.  I had to draw it horizontally on the butcher paper, so the paper is in three pieces.  I very much look forward to seeing what she makes with it.  :)

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