Sewing Tutorials and Articles
All of the information contained in this website reflects my own personal experiences and preferences. There is more than one way to make a quality garment or corset, and as many opinions on sewing-related topics as their are sewing enthusiasts. I hope you find these articles and tutorials informative, helpful, or at least interesting, and as with any complex subject I would encourage you to research other viewpoints and try these methods for yourself before deciding whether or not they are right for you.
Informative Articles
 With proper care, any well-made corset should last for years of regular wearing. This article describes how to store, deodorize, clean, and care for your corset so it lasts as long as possible. |  This page shows you in detail how to lace a typical modern corset (standard crossed lacing pulling from the waist), and how to spiral or offset lace (lacing stays with offset grommet configuration). |
Corset Alteration Tutorials
 In this tutorial I will discuss how to fit and take out a dart at the bust to reduce the bust size on a corset. |  This article describes how to add a triangular or trapezoidal gore into a fabric panel. No one method will work for all situations, but where possible I mention alternatives while describing the process I used for one particular corset. |
Corset Detailing Tutorials
 This tutorial illustrates some of the basic embroidery patterns I have used for flossing, gives tips relating specifically to corset flossing, and assumes you have a basic working knowledge of embroidery. |  How to Add Lace Edging to a Corset Lace edging can usually be added to a corset at any time, simply applied over the existing edge binding. |
Corset Making Tutorials
 This tutorial shows specifically how to grommet a typical corset, but the technique is sound for any occasion where fabric needs to be grommetted. |  There are many ways to insert a busk in a corset. As long as the busk is held in place and can close, it will work. I use a dual-core method for constructing almost all my corsets, so the method I use takes advantage of the two layers. If you are constructing a single-core corset, this method can still be used, but the busk panel must be two-layer. |  A double-busk (also called a backing bone) is quite simply an extra 1/2″ or wider spring steel flat, placed directly behind the busk opening. It serves not only to visually prevent undergarments or skin from peeking through the busk, but greatly strengthens the busk and helps to prevent the busk from popping open if the wearer is physically active, particularly with curvier figures. |
 How to Add Waist Tape to a Corset Waist tape is twill tape, tailor’s tape, or other sturdy ribbon used to re-enforce the waistline of a corset. It’s not essential, but it does increase the durability of a corset by easing stress on the seams along the the highest stress point – the waist line. This tutorial describes several different methods of including waist tape in your corset. |  Boning Channel Alignment Trick This demo shows one trick you can use to find the vertical placement of boning on a corset, regardless of piecing. |  This tutorial shows how to edge a gently curved or straight-edged corset using bias tape or ribbon. |
 This tutorial shows binding the edge of a corset around tabs using a sewing machine, and describes partial hand-stitching for the binding. The binding can also be entirely hand-stitched, but to save time I normally either completely machine-sew the binding, or machine-sew the front side of the binding. |  How to Make a Boned Lacing Panel A lacing panel is a lightly boned panel that fits underneath corset lacing to provide a fully finished look without skin or undergarments showing down the length of the corset. |  How to Make a Basic Two-Layer Coutil Corset The most basic kind of corset I make is a two-layer, plain coutil corset, using vertical panel piecing. This tutorial describes exactly how I make these corsets, and will note any simple variations you may want to try for yourself. |
 How to Make a Basic Ribbon Corset This tutorial describes how to make a ribbon corset using actual ribbon. It has coutil and boning only on the busk, sides, and grommets. Part one covers how to create the ribbon panels and attach them to the grommet and side coutil panels. Part two covers the creation of the busk panels and inserting the busk, as well as how to finish the edging on the busk panels. Part three covers finishing the side panels. Part four covers finishing the grommet panels. |  How to Make a Sport Mesh Corset This tutorial demonstrates in detail how to make an underbust or waist cincher Victorian corset using a synthetic sport mesh. Mesh corsets were made in the late Victorian, but they were constructed using strong, natural-fiber mesh, like linen canvas for embroidery. |  Construction Demo - Quilted Gore Victorian Corset This is detailed construction walk-through of a Victorian-style corset with quilted gore piecing. The core is two layers of coutil on the panels, three layers of coutil on the gores. The cover material is peacock blue dupioni silk. Boning is spring steel flats, flossed in place. The first part of this demo covers the assembly of the body panels, and the creation of the boning channels. The second part covers how to quilt and insert the gores, and how to edge the corset. |
 Sewing Basic Strapless “Renaissance” Stays with Modern Materials This tutorial shows how to make basic strapless Renaissance stays or bodies, which will work as a foundation garment for any costume requiring a conical silhouette. The goal of this method is to create stays as easily and simply as possible, using readily available modern materials, while still providing a proper Renaissance fashion silhouette. If your goal is to create an historically accurate pair of stays, this is NOT the method you will want to use. |
Corset Pattern Drafting Tutorials
 How To Draft A Basic Conical Block (Torso Only) This tutorial shows how to create a conical corset block for the center of the torso. It does not include shoulder straps. This block is the basis of all conical corset and stay patterns that I draft. It is not, in and of itself, a working pattern. It shows one solid half of the torso (center front to center back), and has no seam allowances. This method of making a basic block will work for most body types. |  Drafting Basic Strapless Renaissance Stays (Front or Back Lacing) This drafting tutorial is based on the basic conical block. The piecing of this pattern is a modern re-enactment design, intended to give the proper fashion silhouette for the minimum amount of work. The shape of the body is modeled after Dorothea Sabine von Neuburg’s pair of bodies, minus the shoulder straps. The front-most tab placement is modeled after the pair of Effigy bodies. |
Costume Pattern Drafting Tutorials
 How to Draft a Pattern for Fitted Gaiters This tutorial describes how to use measurements to create a pattern for a fitted pair of gaiters. This particular pattern is for two-layer gaiters with a one-inch overlap on the closure, top and bottom edges that are turned inside, and designed to be worn with flat shoes. Easy variations will be mentioned when appropriate. |
Costume Making Tutorials
 Making Two-Layer Spats or Gaiters This tutorial shows how to make spats or gaiters from two layers of material, self lined, with the top and bottom edges rolled inside. The pattern shown is the one described in my tutorial, How to Draft a Pattern For Fitted Gaiters, but this method can be used for any spats or gaiters. |  How to Insert a Triangular Gore into a Slash This tutorial walks you through two different methods of inserting a triangular gore into a slash. This kind of construction is sometimes seen in modern and vintage garments, and it is commonly used to define bust shape in women's undergarments throughout the 1800's. The images used to illustrate were taken while I was constructing a mock-up for a Regency era corset. |
