Corset Alteration – Adding Hip Gores

This article describes how to add a triangular or trapezoidal gore into a fabric panel on a finished corset. When modifying the size and shape of a corset, every situation is unique. No one method will work for all situations, but where possible I mention alternatives while describing the process I used for one particular corset.

Why does this matter? Well, if you have a corset, but the bottom or top is just a little too small, you may want to consider adding gores to re-create it as a unique garment designed to fit you. In eras where corsets were a common (or required) undergarment, this kind of modification was a common approach to changing fashions, or fitting an existing corset to a new owner. Many extant corsets underwent modification and alteration, because it takes less time and is far less expensive than the materials required for an entirely new corset.

Before doing anything to your corset, examine it carefully, looking at the locations of the bones and evaluating their locations relative to how much material needs to be added and where it should ideally be placed for the most comfortable fit. There needs to be enough un-boned fabric in the right locations for adding the gores and securing them to the body of the corset. You will need at least 1/4″ of unboned fabric on all sides of the intended gore location.

For this particular corset, I needed to add nearly 2″ to each half of the corset. In order to evenly distribute that circumference along the hip I wanted to add two gores, one towards the front of the hip, and one at the back of the hip. Where the panel is wide enough to bunch between the bones are the places where it will be the easiest to add gores.

Inserting a Triangular Gore

For the gore at the front of the hip, the only possible location was on the fourth panel back, which on this particular corset sits at the front of the hip as part of the transition to the side of the corset. The space between the bones is angled to a point, so the only kind of gore I can insert here will be a triangular one, inserted into a slash in the fabric.

The first thing to do is mark the location of the slash in chalk and again examine the location before doing anything permanent to the corset. I decided to place the slash at the mid point of the panel, and will shape the gore so it helps spring the hip out more from that point.

Set your machine for a very small stitch. I used just under the “2″ setting on my machine. The smaller stitch will help to secure individual threads from fraying or pulling loose while working with the slash later on.

The first stitch should be precisely down the slash line. It will be cut later, but in the meantime will serve as a solid guide for all preparations.

After stitchin the slash line, stitch again approximately 1/16″ (or just a couple millimeters) to either side of the slash line. Again, this is to secure all the threads from pulling apart while working with the fabric.

Stitch again to either side of those stitches. Be sure to come up to the point of the slash, and taper down slightly so none of the stitches peek out later.

Before cutting the corset, prepare your gores. Measure the length of the slash and use that distance for your length on either side of the gores. I want to help the hip spring out, especially higher along the gore (due to specific fit issues with this corset – you may want a gentler slope for yours), so the gores in this case let out rather quickly and then more gently. Another issue with the fit of this particular corset was some slight asymetry, requiring a bit more room on the left hip than the right.

Each gore has a 3/8″ allowance on all sides (including the bottom, so I have some room to adjust when inserting), and the point where it matches the top of the slash is marked with a dot. I cut the core fabric and the cover fabric. The left hip is on the right (stage left) and the right hip is on the left (stage right).

Flatline the layers of the gore so you can treat them as a single unit. The stitches are 1/4″ from the edge of the gores, which will leave me with 1/8″ of overlap past the stitches when inserting.

Once the gores are prepared, slash the body of the corset.

If there is enough room on your corset, you may be able to fold over the slash edge to create a nice border for the gore. If you plan to do that, be sure to add the width of the fold-over to your gore.

I did not have room for a fold-over on this corset, so I decided to bind the raw edges with bias tape. Stitch the bias tape to the edge, tapering down slightly towards the tip of the slash so it will be easier to cover with stitches later.

Fold under the edging and top-stitch to secure it.

Repeat on the other raw edge. The tip of the slash will still be raw.

Place the gore so the dot is at the tip of the slash and insert the machine needle to hold it in place. Arrange the gore so the side you are working is 3/8″ overlapped by the corset body and hold it in place. Depending upon the relative shapes of the corset and gore, you may need to hold only a short distance from the needle, secure it, and re-position the next short distance until the side of the gore is entirely stitched to the body of the corset.

Stitch both at the very edge of the slash and 1/4″ into the corset.

Those stitches will hold it while working, but may not be sturdy enough to hold once the corset is being worn. I strongly recommend adding more stitches of some sort to ensure the gore does not pull free. I used a decorative machine stitch, but multiple straight stitches will work just as well. Try to pick something that blends with the overall look of the corset you are modifying.

To finish the gore, hand-stitch at the apex. This will cover all remaining frayed edges, and secure the tip of the gore in place. Most period Victorian corsets with gores had some sort of hand treatment to hold the points of gores, so there are a lot of examples to view for inspiration. If you are reluctant to hand-stitch, an alternative would be to apply a small placket over the tip of the gore. Again, stitch it down securely because this point will be prone to pulling free if not firmly held in place.

Inserting a Trapezoidal Gore

A trapezoidal gore will require at least 1/4″ of un-boned fabric on all sides, plus the width of the top of the gore. For this corset, I have just enough room for a trapezoidal gore with a 3/16″ wide top.

As with the triangular gore, I marked the cut in chalk.

Set your machine to a small stitch, because these stitches need to prevent the layers of the fabric from fraying and pulling free while it is being worked.

Stitch directly down the cut line, across the top the width of the gore top, and back down to the corset edge parallel to the first stitch. These stitches will be cut later, but will serve as a firm guide for all other preparations.

Stitch another line 1/16″ (or a couple millimeters) from the first, and a third line just outside of that one. These stitches will hold the layers of the corset together while inserting the gore.

To draft the trapezoidal gore, draw a rectangle exactly the same size as the part of the corset that will be removed for gore insertion. Leaving the top of the gore the same width as the cut, widen the sides to create the needed extra space. In this case I used a straight-sided trapezoid because the shape of the corset already contains the needed curve. Depending upon your particular fit needs, this gore may have curved sides, or have more bulk to one side or the other.

Be sure to mark the corner points to match when inserting, and add seam allowance. I used a 3/8″ allowance on all sides, including the bottom so I had room to adjust the placement when sewing.

Flatline all layers of the gores so they may be treated as a single unit. These gores are coutil core and silk cover. The flatline stitches are 1/4″ from the gore edges, so there should be 1/8″ overlap of the corset past the stitching.

Cut along the first stitch line to create the insertion for the gore.

If there is enough room on your panel, you might want to consider a fold-over edge for your gore. However, you will need at least an extra 1/4″ of unboned fabric on all sides, and plan to hand-finish the corners as with the triangular gores. Cut diagonally into the corners back to the fold-over depth so sides and top can all be folded. Don’t forget to include the lost fold-over fabric in your gore when creating the pattern.

I did not have room for a fold-over, so I bound the edges of the insertion point. Stitch the bias tape to the corset 1/4″ from the raw edge.

When you get 1/4″ past the opening, plunge the needle to full depth. Lift the presser foot, turn the corset, and turn the bias tape. Be careful that folds of the bias tape do not pull in front of the needle, or it will create ugly bunching when you go to turn the tape.

Turn again at the other corner.

Stitch all the way down to the edge of the corset.

Fold over the bias tape and top-stitch it in place.

Take care to secure the bias tape all the way around the top edge of the cut.

The underside may be left raw and covered later.

Place the gore under the opening and secure one side. Match the dot so it is just hidden under the body of the corset, and stitch it down.

Secure the top next, and then finish down the other side of the gore.

Once it is held in place, stitch at the edge of the binding to further secure it.

Finishing the Gores

This is how the inside of the corset looks after the gore is secured. As you can see, the gores still have raw edges on the inside. It can be left like this, but I recommend finishing the inside so none of the raw edges can be seen at any time.

If you prefer not to add lining at the end, you can include lining at the beginning, and bind the edges of the gore so at this point they will be completely finished. I opted not to do that on this corset because I wanted to also cover all stitches at the end.

For this corset I am adding lining only over the gore areas. I cut four pieces of lining material in roughly the shapes of the gores, with about 1″ extra on all sides so I have plenty to fold under.

I hand worked the lining pieces onto the corset using a whip stitch. I folded under one side and secured it down the length, and then folded under the next side and continued. Be sure to have a bit more area of lining than the gore, If you stitch the lining area too tight, so it’s shorter than the gore, you will need to remove the stitches and try again.