How to Add a Double-Busk

This tutorial describes two different methods for creating a double-busk.  The original tutorial describes a minimal pocket for boning.  It is found on the second half of this page.  The revised tutorial describes creating a full boned panel for behind the busk, the same height as the corset and edged to match.

The first time I made a double-busk for a corset, I was absolutely stunned by the difference in the strength and stability of the busk. A double-busk (also called a backing bone) is quite simply an extra 1/2″ or wider spring steel flat, placed directly behind the busk opening. It serves not only to visually prevent undergarments or skin from peeking through the busk, and also greatly strengthens the busk and helps to prevent the busk from popping open if the wearer is physically active, particularly with more ample figures.

Complete Panel Pocket

The images shown are for a corset with coutil core, herringbone cover, and white muslin lining.  The edging in this case is cotton tafetta ribbon, but you will want to use whatever edging is used on the body of the corset.  You can also use an alternate strength layer if desired.  The backing panel is not under pressure, so it does not require especially sturdy material.

A backing panel can be added to a corset at any time after it is finished, even years later.  If you plan to include a backing panel in a new corset, add it after finishing the edging on the corset.  The added bulk of the backing panel can prevent edging in the busk area, especially on a home machine.

You will need two layers of core material, (optional) one layer of cover material, and (optional) one layer of lining material.  The strips are about 1/2″ longer than the front of the corset and 2.5″ wide.  I am using 1/2″ spring steel boning for my backing, and 1/2″ seam allowance.  You will want to adjust the width to suit your seam allowance and chosen boning.  The formula to determine the width of material is (boning width) + 4x(seam allowance).  In my case that is .5" + 4x.5" = .5" + 2" = 2.5"

Any sturdy boning 1/2″ or wider will work well.  Spring steel is ideal.  Spiral boning will not add any stability, but it will hide garments or skin from peeking through the busk.  The bone should ideally be the same length as your busk, but it will still work if it is a little shorter.  When your backing bone is shorter orient it towards the bottom of the panel.

Stack your layers wrong side out with the lining and cover sandwiched between the core material.  Stitch a seam down the length on one side.

Fold open and press the seam.

Fold the layers back in on the seam, press, and edge-stitch.

Create the boning channel by first stitching at seam allowance, and then again at a width appropriate to your boning.

Fold in the raw edges of the fabric, press, and edge stitch.

Insert and secure the boning.  Then line it up with the busk and mark the length of the panel.

Edge stitch inside the marks and trim the ends.  I usually curve the edges slightly so the corners are sure to stay hidden behind the corset.

Cut a length of edging material about 2″ longer than the raw edge.  Stitch it onto the cover side of the panel at the depth of the edging on your corset.  If you are using bias edging, the edge of the bias tape should be flush with the edge of the panel.

Fold the edging to the back and top-stitch it in place from the cover side of the panel.  After sewing it should look something like this on the inside.

After finishing the binding at both ends, your backing panel should look something like this.

Take the peg side of your busk and line up the backing panel so it is flush with the top and bottom, and the bone is half-way out from the edge of the busk.  Stitch it in place alongside the busk.

Be sure to attach the backing panel to the peg side of the busk.  If you attach it to the hook side it will severely interfere with opening and closing the busk.

Minimal Boning Pocket Method

The images shown here are for a coutil-only corset (the black fabric), and for a covered corset (the blue silk).

I planned for the inclusion of double-busks in these corsets, but this is a feature that can easily be added to most corsets after construction is complete.

Choose a bone that is the same length or slightly shorter than the busk. In these cases, I used bones that were 1″ shorter, but I have also used a 3″ shorter bone in the past.

Cut a rectangle of fabric that is wide enough for a bone channel, seam allowance, and enough extra fabric that it can be sewn to the corset. Vertically, it needs to be long enough for the bone, plus seam allowance fold-under. In this case, I made the fabric 4″ wide and only 1″ longer than the bone. I should have made it 2″ longer than the bone.

If you are making the double-busk for a covered corset, cut an identically sized rectangle out of your cover fabric. Also keep in mind that the structural layer does not need to be coutil, because the double-busk does not receive any stress from lacing. In this case I used cotton duck canvas, because it has structure but is far less expensive.

Fold the rectangle in half width-wise and sew seam allowance along the side and top. If you are including cover material, fold it inside, with the wrong side facing the structural fabric. When sewing the seam, you can also include a string sewn into the upper corner to help when turning the fabric later.

Trim the corner to eliminate bulk when turning.

Press open the seam, so it will be easier to cleanly turn the fabric.

Use a pencil or other small object to press the sewn end into the tube of fabric and turn it.

Force the seams to crease nicely. I have found that using the bone to press out the fabric is helpful. If you sewed a string into your seam, use it to pull the corner out and then trim it off. It may take some coaxing to get the corner cleanly out. Iron if needed.

Sew the boning channel to the side opposite the long seam. If you are planning to turn in the open edge, stop at the length of the bone. Also edge stitch along top of the panel, to help re-enforce the bone placement.

Insert the bone and secure it in place. Trim the bottom edge to about 1″ and then turn it in. Edge stitch along all seams to secure them and ensure they will stay flat.

If you do not have enough extra fabric at the bottom to turn in, or do not want to turn in the edge, then sew at the bottom of the bone to secure it in place and trim to edging distance. Then finish it off with an edge binding like the final corset will have.

Position the double-busk so it will center on the busk opening, and stitch it in place. BE CERTAIN to place it on the peg side of the busk. If you place it on the hook side, you will have a very hard time closing your busk.

My stitches followed the stitches for the busk. If desired, you can sew a second row of stitches just away from the busk seam. If you do that, I recommend mirroring the stitch line on the other side of the busk for visual consistency.

Back views of the finished double-busk, both with and without the busk closed.

Thank you for reading, and I hope you find this tutorial useful.