Accessories Historic Costuming Sewing Work in Progress

Blackwork Forehead Cloth – WIP8

Blackwork Forehead Cloth - WIP9, by Sidney Eileen, flat silk on linen, linen thread, hand sewn with whip stitch.
Blackwork Forehead Cloth

The forehead cloth is almost done.  Using linen thread I hand stitched a narrow whip stitch hem around all the edges of the cloth, and then am sewing the straps using a whip stitch over the folded edge.  Once they are both done I will sew them to the forehead cloth and it will be done. Chances are very good that I will be done tonight.

Blackwork Forehead Cloth - WIP9 - Detail, by Sidney Eileen, flat silk on linen, linen thread, hand sewn with whip stitch.
Blackwork Forehead Cloth – Detail

I used a basic whip stitched hem around the outside of the forehead cloth.  It’s about 1/4″ deep along the front, and 3/8″ deep on the sides.  I placed my stitched a little less than 1/8″ apart.

Hem Stitch Illustration, by Sidney Eileen, shows how to hand sew a whip stitched hem.
Hem Stitch Illustration – Fold over the edge of the fabric toward the inside of the garment so that the raw edge is hidden. Depending upon the fabric and desired final appearance, this roll can be as little as 1/4” wide or and inch or more.
Catch a couple threads of the outer material and then a few threads of the folded over hem.
I recommend close stitches, six to ten per inch, on narrow, delicate hems, like around a neckline or the end of a sleeve. Fewer stitches are needed on wider hems, where I usually place them about 1/4” apart.

Fore the ties I folded over the strip of fabric onto itself so the raw edges would be encased inside, and then whip stitched over the folds.  Each stitch is less than 1/8″ apart, which is probably more than is technically needed, but will probably extend the life of the ties.

Whip Stitch Illustration, by SIdney Eileen, how to make a basic whip stitch at an edge.  Can be done around one or more layers of material.
Whip Stitch Illustration – Stitch at an angle, creating a zig-zag pattern.
The closer you make your stitches, the stronger and more stable your seam will be.

Project: Blackwork Forehead Cloth