Attach the Cover and Lining to the Core

Slip the cover over the core. If you are using a busk, I recommend sewing the hook side first. Pin the cover material at the top and bottom so it is snug down the length of the corset.

Variation: If your corset has a solid front, slip the entire cover/lining over the entire core.  Pin the center panel seams of all layers at the top and bottom of the corset, making sure that the cover is snug against the core.  If you leave any bagginess or uneven pulling when it is pinned, it will still be there when you are done, so adjust and repin until the cover is smooth against the core.

You will want to stitch close to the busk, but it does not need to be exactly against metal of the busk since it is already secured in the core. The goal of this stitch line is to hold the cover material tight against the front edge of the corset. Use your hands to adjust the fabric as needed while you sew, making sure the cover material is as tight against the busk as possible.I have found it is easier for me to make all adjustments by hand while sewing. You may find it easier to pin along the panel seam before sewing the busk. I recommend that you try both and see what works better for you.

Pin the cover and lining to the core at each seam before sewing the edge of the corset from the busk to the back. Be sure to stay within the area that will be covered with your edge binding later. There are usually some inevitable differences between the layers, but if you have been very careful in your cutting and sewing, they should be very small. Try to keep all the edges even when you stitch, and stretch the bias slightly as you go around curves. I used a straight stitch on this corset, but a small zig-zag also works extremely well.

Variation: If your corset has a solid front, pin all the seams just like on the busk version.  Skip to the next page and find the instructions on how to secure the grommet area.  After the back edge is secure at the grommet area, then stitch the cover and lining to the core along the top and bottom edges of the corset.  Start at one end and go all the way to the other.

Pin the seams of all layers together along the top of the corset. Make sure the cover is snug on the core. Any bagginess or uneven pulling visible now will also be visible on the finished corset.  Adjust and repin until the cover is completely smooth against the core.

Sew along the top edge of the corset, securing all layers. Double-check for any bagginess or uneven pulling. If you see any, pick out the stitches in the problem area and re-secure along the edges.

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