How to Edge Around Tabs
This tutorial shows binding the edge of a corset around tabs using a sewing machine, and describes partial hand-stitching for the binding. The binding can also be entirely hand-stitched, but to save time I normally either completely machine-sew the binding, or machine-sew the front side of the binding.
I strongly recommend binding the tabs before inserting the boning, regardless of the kind of boning used. The edging can be bound after cording, because cording is flexible. It is much easier to manipulate the material and smoothly bind the edge when the body of the stays or corset is still fully flexible.
Edge stitch the edge of the corset to hold all the layers together and prevent fraying. Be sure to stitch back and forth a few times at the top ends of the tab slashes, to re-enforce them.
I am using ¾” wide cotton taffeta ribbon to bind the bottom edge, so I am stitching along the very edge of the ribbon. If you are using bias tape, be sure the bias tape is wide enough the edge of the tape can be flush with the edge of the corset.
To sew around the upper turns it is necessary to life the sewing foot, pull the binding material around the turn, and smooth it before lowing the foot again. Be very careful that the edge of the binding will catch in the line of stitching, but the folds will not. It may take some manipulation, but gets easier with practice.
Extra binding material is needed at the lower turns so it can smoothly bend around the edges. Lift the presser foot and turn the corset and the binding. Push a small fold of binding material against the machine needle. Lower the presser foot.
A very small fold of binding material should be butted up against the needle. Stitch back and forth over the fold a couple times before proceeding as normal.
When turning around the upper points of the tabs, it can be helpful to turn around the end in small steps.
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Tight corners, I wasn’t brave enough to do by machine. I may have to try it on a sample before I commit to a whole piece. :D
It involves a lot of stopping, lifting the foot, turning the corset in the machine every stitch or two, and hand-walking the needle when going around turns. Still, I’ve found it’s worth while for the time it saves on the straight parts.