New Spoonflower Fabric – Scrolling Blackwork Strawberry Bands

Scrolling Blackwork Strawberry Bands on Spoonflower Fabric, by Sidney Eileen; Original design created in the style of Elizabethan freehand blackwork embroidery.

Scrolling Blackwork Strawberry Bands on Spoonflower Fabric

This week’s new Spoonflower fabric design is Scrolling Blackwork Strawberry Bands. This black and white fabric is of my own design, in the style of Elizabethan freehand blackwork embroidery.

This design is also available as wallpaper and wrapping paper.

This design completes my first collection, Freehand Blackwork Embroidery Designs, for now.  In the future I may add to this collection if there is interest.  Next week I will start releasing designs from a new collection featuring geometric blackwork embroidery designs.

Find all the currently available designs at http://www.spoonflower.com/profiles/sidney_eileen

A new design will be released every week!

Green Viking Hood

Green linen viking hood, by Sidney Eileen; It is linen, entirely hand sewn and embroidered with linen thread. Stitches used are herringbone stitch to finish the seam allowances and bottom hem, running stitch for assembly and accent around the hood opening, feather stitch for decorative reenforcement of the seams, and Oseberg rings for decoration on the hem.

Green linen viking hood

The finished green viking hood is linen, entirely hand sewn and embroidered with linen thread. Stitches used are herringbone stitch to finish the seam allowances and bottom hem, running stitch for assembly and accent around the hood opening, feather stitch for decorative reenforcement of the seams, and Oseberg rings for decoration on the hem.

The piecing of the hood is based on the Skjold Harbor hood find, but is adapted for linen and for the style of decoration I chose to use.  As is typical for reenactment, this one is made from two square gores sewn into two long rectangles.  The original was made from three squares of fabric, so the fabric was solid right below the hood opening.  I wanted to be able to fold back the seam allowances for decorative finishing (see below), so it made sense to have a seam there instead.

Green Viking Hood - Gore Detail, by Sidney Eileen. The finished viking hood. It is linen, entirely hand sewn and embroidered with linen thread. Stitches used are herringbone stitch to finish the seam allowances and bottom hem, running stitch for assembly and accent around the hood opening, and feather stitch for decorative reenforcement of the seams.

Green Viking Hood – Gore Detail. This photo shows the inside and outside stitch detail at the tops of the gores.

The hood was assembled with running stitch first, using linen thread pulled from the selvage of the fabric.  Machine-woven fabric typically has much higher quality threads in the selvage so it can feed properly through the machines as it is woven, threads that are very well suited to hand sewing, and already color matched to the body fabric.

I then folded the seam allowances to the outside of the garment and finished them using a tiny herringbone stitch in Londonderry linen thread size 30/3 (medium diameter).

Green Viking Hood - Opening Detail, by Sidney Eileen. The finished viking hood. It is linen, entirely hand sewn and embroidered with linen thread. Stitches used are herringbone stitch to finish the seam allowances and bottom hem, and running stitch for assembly and accent around the hood opening. This photo shows the inside and outside stitch detail along the front edge of the hood opening.

Green Viking Hood – Opening Detail. This photo shows the inside and outside stitch detail along the front edge of the hood opening.

Along the hood opening I finished the edge with a decorative running stitch using the same color of 30/3 thread I also used for feather stitch along the seams.  The feather stitch provided a decorative reinforcement for the seams to prevent stitches from popping.

Green Viking Hood - Hem Detail, by Sidney Eileen. This photo shows the inside and outside of the hem at one of the seams, detailing the the embroidery on both the inside and outside of the garment.

Green Viking Hood – Hem Detail. This photo shows the inside and outside of the hem at one of the seams, detailing the the embroidery on both the inside and outside of the garment.

The bottom hem of the hood is turned to the inside and finished in a quick tiny herrinbone stitch again using thread pulled from the selvage of the fabric.  To cover those stitches, I decoratively embroidered the bottom hem with Oseberg rings.  This embroidery is based on a small piece of wool applique embroidery found in the Oseberg ship burial, and, according to Anne Stine Ingstad in The Textiles in the Oseberg Ship, “This type of small embroidery is known from the graves in Birka, and there too it is placed along the edges of seams and applications.”  If you go check out her article, the section on the ring embroidery is close to the bottom.

The inspiration embroidery is a wool core with wool thread wrapped around it and couching it to the fabric.  For my version I am using linen thread, size 18/3 (large) for the core, and 30/3 (medium) for the wrap.

Green Viking Hood - Hem Corner Detail, by Sidney Eileen; This photo shows the inside and outside of the corner of the hem, detailing the couched stitching and how I navigated the ring embroidery around the corners.

Green Viking Hood – Hem Corner Detail. This photo shows the inside and outside of the corner of the hem, detailing the couched stitching and how I navigated the ring embroidery around the corners.

And for purposes of sharing on social media, here are a couple collage photos suitable for different platforms.

Green linen viking hood, by Sidney Eileen; It is linen, entirely hand sewn and embroidered with linen thread. Stitches used are herringbone stitch to finish the seam allowances and bottom hem, running stitch for assembly and accent around the hood opening, feather stitch for decorative reenforcement of the seams, and Oseberg rings for decoration on the hem.

Green linen viking hood

Green linen viking hood, by Sidney Eileen; It is linen, entirely hand sewn and embroidered with linen thread. Stitches used are herringbone stitch to finish the seam allowances and bottom hem, running stitch for assembly and accent around the hood opening, feather stitch for decorative reenforcement of the seams, and Oseberg rings for decoration on the hem.

Green linen viking hood

 

Project: Green Viking Hood

New Spoonflower Fabric – Scrolling Blackwork Embroidery Strawberries

Scrolling Blackwork Embroidery Strawberries on Spoonflower Fabric, by Sidney Eileen; Original design created in the style of Elizabethan freehand blackwork embroidery.

Scrolling Blackwork Embroidery Strawberries on Spoonflower Fabric

This week’s new Spoonflower fabric design is Scrolling Blackwork Embroidery Strawberries. This black and white fabric is of my own design, in the style of Elizabethan freehand blackwork embroidery.

This design is also available as wallpaper and wrapping paper.

Find all the currently available designs at http://www.spoonflower.com/profiles/sidney_eileen

A new design will be released every week!

Green Viking Hood – WIP 1-3

The past couple months I have slowly been plugging away at another Viking hood.  This one is made from linen fabric, hand sewn with linen thread pulled from the selvage of the fabric, and embroidered with linen thread using herringbone stitch, feather stitch, and Osberg rings.  If you follow me on facebook, instagram, or twitter you may have already seen these photos as I took them.

Green Viking Hood - WIP 1, by Sidney Eileen; Made from linen fabric, hand stitched with linen thread. Seams finished with small herringbone stitch in linen thread.

Green linen fabric with linen small herringbone embroidery/seam finish.

I am finishing the seams in a manner very similar to the apron dress I made last year.  The seam allowance is folded over and stitched down using a tiny herringbone stitch in linen thread, and then the center of the seam is reinforced with feather stitch.

Green Viking Hood - WIP 2, by Sidney Eileen; Made from linen fabric, hand stitched with linen thread. Seams finished with small herringbone stitch in linen thread. Hem is in progress, being finished with linen thread in herringbone stitch.

Green linen fabric with linen small herringbone embroidery/seam finish, and herringbone stitch hem finish.

The bottom hem is finished using a rough herringbone stitch using more of the fabric selvage thread.

Green Viking Hood - WIP 3, by Sidney Eileen; Made from linen fabric, hand stitched with linen thread. Seams finished with small herringbone stitch in linen thread, and reinforced with feather stitch. Hem is embroidered with small Osberg rings.

Green linen fabric with linen small herringbone and feather stitch embroidery/seam finish, and the bottom hem embroidered with Osberg rings.

As a finishing touch I am embroidering over the bottom hem stitches using Osberg rings.  This embroidery is based on a small piece of wool applique embroidery found in the Osberg ship burial, and, according to Anne Stine Ingstad in The Textiles in the Osberg Ship, “This type of small embroidery is known from the graves in Birka, and there too it is placed along the edges of seams and applications.”  If you go check out her article, the section on the ring embroidery is close to the bottom.

The inspiration embroidery is a wool core with wool thread wrapped around it and couching it to the fabric.  I am using Londonderry linen thread for all my linen embroidery.  For my version I am using 18/3 (large) for the core, and 30/3 (medium) for the wrap.  In the photo above I am working right to left, but I have since tried working it left to right and found it much easier to accurately size the rings working in the new direction.

This stitch is far more time consuming than I had expected.  Each foot of hem takes about five hours to embroider, and the first few rings were nowhere near as even as the ones in the photo above.

Project: Green Viking Hood

New Spoonflower Fabric – Detailed Elizabethan Carpet Floral Blackwork

Detailed Elizabethan Carpet Floral Blackwork on Spoonflower Fabric, by Sidney Eileen

Detailed Elizabethan Carpet Floral Blackwork on Spoonflower Fabric

This week’s new Spoonflower fabric design is Detailed Elizabethan Carpet Floral Blackwork. This black and white fabric is inspired by an extant panel of Elizabethan blackwork embroidery.

This design is also available as wallpaper and wrapping paper.

Find all the currently available designs at http://www.spoonflower.com/profiles/sidney_eileen

A new design will be released every week!

New Spoonflower Fabric – Elizabethan Blackwork Barberries

Elizabethan Blackwork Barberry on Spoonflower Fabric

Elizabethan Blackwork Barberry on Spoonflower Fabric

This week’s Spoonflower fabric print-on-demand design is now available!  This print, Elizabethan Blackwork Barberries, is based on the blackwork embroidery on an extant jacket.  It has no filling design so it may be used as printed or embroidered over.

This design is also available as wallpaper and wrapping paper.

Find all the currently available designs at http://www.spoonflower.com/profiles/sidney_eileen

A new design will be released every week!

New Spoonflower Fabric – Elizabethan Blackwork Flowers, Birds, and Bugs

Elizabethan Blackwork Flowers, Birds, and Bugs on Spoonflower Fabric

Elizabethan Blackwork Flowers, Birds, and Bugs on Spoonflower Fabric

My latest Spoonflower fabric print-on-demand design is now available!  This print, Elizabethan Blackwork Flowers, Birds, and Bugs, is based on the blackwork embroidery on an extant smock.  It has no filling design so it may be used as printed or embroidered over.

This design is also available as wallpaper and wrapping paper.

Find all the currently available designs at http://www.spoonflower.com/profiles/sidney_eileen

A new design will be released every week!