I received a question regarding how I started with making corsets, and seeking advice on where an art/sewing student should start with learning to make corsets herself.  This is the body of the email I wrote to her.

I have not yet written any formal tutorials on corset pattern drafting or making, but I have posted a number of blog-style works. They can be found on my LiveJournal http://pics.livejournal.com/sidneyeileen/gallery/00008sh0 http://sidneyeileen.livejournal.com/ and on my personal web site http://sidneyeileen.com/zp/

I started out making costumes, mostly Elizabethan, and learned how to draft my own patterns for that era’s clothing. Corset-making, though, is it’s own giant critter, so at first I intended to just buy my corsets. After buying a corset for a friend as a wedding present from a VERY reputable corsettier, I was so disappointed that I decided I could hardly make a worse product.

The first corset I made was from a commercial pattern – a conical corset for fur-trade re-enactment. I followed all the instructions, and despite following their fit instructions ended up with a corset that was two dress sizes too small. It was very difficult to find any corset patterns available commercially at the time (this was about ten years go), so I decided to instead invest in a couple books on Victorian-era tailoring and corset-making. It was very difficult to find any cohesive information on the subject, so I just muddled through it, experimented, and figured it out on my own.

At this point there are enough independent corsettiers and forums where we can share information that it is easy to find tips, get feedback, and compare notes on construction methods. There are a great many different ways to make very high-quality corsets, and just as many ways to make cheap corsets. I make mine with the intention that they should be capable of lasting for years of daily wear or a lifetime of occasional wear, so my methods are particularly durable. There are cheaper and easier ways to make corsets, especially if you are just learning or if it’s just a showpiece. One of the easiest is to sew all layers as one with flat-feld seams between, which can also act as your boning channels.

If the piece you are intending is for show, or your first attempt, it is probably easier to start with a commercial pattern. I can’t personally recommend any particular pattern, but I can recommend Laughing Moon and Truly Victorian as having a very high standard of quality in their patterns in general. By starting with a good, historically-aimed pattern, you can focus on construction and comprehension of how the pieces fit together to create the form. After you understand how the existing patterns result in the shapes they do, it will be much easier to set about creating your own patterns.

Other than that, the best tip I can give you is that it is well worth while to use quality materials. Most of them can be found through http://corsetmaking.com . Steel boning is essential. Coutil is nice, but for a first piece you could use heavy-weight duck or denim, just expect that the corset will stretch a bit rather than holding the shape absolutely true. Give an extra inch gap at the back, and a less expensive core material will work fine while you are learning.

I wish you great success with your project, and have fun.

Best Regards,

Sidney