This tutorial will walk you through the process of making a basic, boned Victorian underbust style corset from beginning to end.  It is written with the novice corset maker in mind, providing start-to-finish instructions using a method that is much more straightforward and forgiving of imprecision and errors than most of the methods described in my tutorials.

The method described is often called a “welt seam” method, but I have also seen it and variations of it called “folded seam”.  The principle idea is that you build the corset from front to back, adding each panel as a complete unit.  This makes construction relatively quick and easy by eliminating repetitive tasks and lessening the impact of imprecise cutting and sewing.  It can be very strong and durable, and relatively lightweight.  It is easy to include one boning channel per seam during construction, or to add boning channels with boning tape after the body is assembled and before edging.

The disadvantages are lack of design flexibility and the quick build-up of bulk at the seams.  It is difficult to use with gores because of bulk where multiple seams meet, although gores inserted into a slash can avoid this problem.  It can also be difficult or impossible to create extra adornments and features that span multiple panels.  However, for the beginning corset maker the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages, and this method and other similar variations are mainstays for many experienced corset makers.

How to Make a Corset Using the Welt-Seam Method

This is the bulk of a piece I wrote in February of 2012, originally intended to be part of a published anthology of projects.  Unfortunately, publication of the anthology fell through, so I have converted my part of the book and published it here for anyone to read.