How to Make a Basic Two-Layer Coutil Corset
Assembling the Panels
When assembling the panels to each other, I always start at Panel 1.
Place your first pins matching the waist dots and the top and bottom edges at seam depth.
After those first three pins are in place, ease the curves of the two panels together and pin as frequently as needed to keep the edges even.
Set your machine to a very small stitch width. I typically use a “2”. Stitch your seam, going very slowly down the entire length of the seam. It is much easier to sew precisely around all curves at a slow speed. Stitch very slowly and wait until the last possible moment to remove the pins so the fabric will shift as little as possible.
If you intend to iron open your seams, or if you just want to make your corset extra strong, lock-stitch after pulling the pins. Lock stitching is when you stitch back over a seam that has already been sewn, further securing the seam and the first layer of stitching.
I almost never iron open my seams. Instead, I fold the seam allowance to one side, and stitch it in place using a top stitch about 1/8″ from the main seam. This places the pressure of the garment on the grain of the fabric, rather than on a stitched seam.
If you are using open seams (not the folded seams shown below), iron them open with a hot, dry iron.
If you are folding the seams, iron them to the side before top-stitching. This ensures the seam allowance doesn’t curl or bunch up under the seam. If you do find that some of your seam allowance is bunched under the seam, pull the stitches, re-iron, and top stitch it again.
After the first Panel 1,2 seam has been sewn, attach the second Panel 2 and fold its seam allowance in the same direction as the first. It is critical that all seam allowances for each half be folded in the same direction so that the bulk of the seam allowances do not end up on the same side of the seam.
To test this, when your panel looks like the one below fold it at the center of Panel 1 where the grommeted edge will be. Line up both Panel 1,2 seams. If they were both folded in the same direction with the panels laid out flat, once they are lined up one of them will face the back edge, and the other will face forward.
Stitch together Panels 1 and 2 for the other half of the corset.
Only after all four pieces of each panel have been sewn to the growing corset halves should the next set of panels be added. This helps to save confusion regarding which panel has been sewn to which, where, and when. There are few things as frustrating to the beginning corset-maker as staring at a mixed up pile of very similar-looking panels and not knowing where they belong.
As you go along, be sure to use as many pins as needed to keep the edges of the two panels even. If a curve is very sharp, you will need more pins. If one piece has a sharp curve and the other is nearly straight, you will need a lot of pins. There are times when I place a pin every 1/4″ or so before sewing the seam.
Don’t forget to stitch the seam allowances so they all fold in the same direction.
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Thank you so much for this tutorial! It was really helpful! (Especially the abundance of pictures!)
Will you be posting your covered corset tutorial soon? I’m very curious about that method as well. I want to try it, but I feel like there’s probably more to it than just attaching the outer and base layers at the edges and it’s just not occurring to me.
I would love to promise that the covered corset tutorial will be posted soon, but I just don’t know. I’ve been sitting on the photos for some time, but illness has prevented me from doing anything with them. However, since I have shut down business and typing doesn’t take much energy, I’m hoping to get the tutorial written and posted in the next few months. What I will probably be posting first is a piece I wrote last year intended for publication, but publication fell through. Since it’s all written, all I need to do is reformat it for my web site. That tutorial will show how to make a single-layer core corset with a cover, a very different process from the floating cover I mention in this tutorial.
To make a floating cover, you actually have the right idea with attaching the outer layers at the edges. If you have been precise with your cutting and sewing, they should match up pretty well. That’s the real trick, is being painfully precise. Before you trim the top and bottom edges, sew the lining and cover into a continual loop of fabric, into which you slip the core layers. Line up the seams and the top and bottom edges, pinning thoroughly. Zig-zag baste stitch along the top and bottom edges to secure the cover and lining in place. Then you can stretch the corset around a pillow or dress form to make sure the cover is laying smoothly. Pull stitches and adjust as needed. Then trim and edge like normal.
I was using this method (although not directly following this tutorial), and I found that my inner and outer cores did not match up when I tried putting them together. Especially in the curved areas of bust and hips, one of the cores (usually inner) was slightly bigger and would bunch when I tried sewing down the boning channels.
How would you avoid that problem? It seems like it wouldn’t be unusual for the two core layers to be off by a little. Mine weren’t off by very much, but it was still problematic. Do I need to just get better at precision, or do people usually just iron the cores after the boning channels are done to line them up?
Anyway, since I am pressed for time, I am just ripping out the inner core altogether and sticking with a “lite” version of this particular corset, but I would still like to know if you have any tricks for this.
Precision is the first and most important step to avoiding that problem, but no matter how precise you are, they are not going to be absolutely identical. The more dramatic a curve is, the more deviation you are inevitably going to see simply because the layer to the outside of the curve is following a longer arc than the layer to the inside of the curve.
The best way I have found to deal with this is pinning so much it seems almost neurotic. Using slightly bent pins helps, because the layers of the corset can lay flat, the pin curving through the layers instead of the layers curving over the pin. When a curve is being problematic, it works a lot like easing two seams together. Pin at the waist, and at any other critical points, like where the curve out at the bust starts, and at the edge. Ease the layers, keeping the seam lines lined up. If you have a very dramatic curve, you may need to unpin the edge and let the shorter arc layer protrude ever so slightly. If doing so allows the layers to line up smoothly, it’s much better to trim a little excess before edging. Pin as many pins as you need to in order to keep the seams lined up over the curve. I sometimes have a pin every 1/4″ when preparing a dramatic curve, on BOTH sides of the seam. Essentially, I am using the pins to baste the seam together before stitching with the machine, because the movement of the foot and the feed dog can easily cause the two layers to slip slightly, and a slight amount can make a huge difference in the final product.
Working with lining up the seams accurately and pinning them is also partially a matter of practice, and the more times you do it, the easier it will be to manipulate them into position. Ironing can also be a help if you are running into problems. I have a tendency to avoid the iron as much as possible, but if it helps you get everything where it needs to be, by all means use the iron. This tutorial shows how I make the corsets, but if you find something else works better for you, or something I do doesn’t work at all, then do your own thing. There is no single right way to make garments.
Thank you very much, for providing these extremely useful tutorials in the first place, and for being willing to answer questions!
I’m definitely going to try to be even more precise with my pinning, though it wasn’t bad to begin with. I might also try pinning the layers together for a check *before* I baste down the boning channels. This didn’t occur to me at first, but it seems that it would give me the opportunity to take in seams where I need to for a better fit. I’ll try it with my very next one.
Thanks so much,
Nina.
You are most welcome. :)
I was curious to know if it is plausible to do a deconstruct/reconstruct type of corset, by this I mean, I would like to take a shirt or garment and add a corset piece in it thus turning itself into a corset. What are the probabilities for this? I can send you pictures to further explain, if need be. This is a project for my wife and a little bit of a surprise to her. Any assistance would be appreciated.
Thank you,
-Jon
I’m sure it’s possible. I’ve seen blouses and shirts available mass produced which use corset piecing to create a corset-like appearance, often with very flattering effect. The construction, structure, and function, however, are completely different, so I don’t consider such garments to actually be corsets. If you mean you would like to use a fitting shirt as the basis for a corset pattern, it’s technically possible, but probably easier to start from scratch or from a duct tape form. This is because any normal garment is either stretchy (rendering it useless for sizing a non-stretchy garment) or is going to add ease so it fits comfortably over the body. Corsets are very rigid garments, so in order to stay in place without shifting and chaffing, they need to be smaller at the waist than the natural measurement, and ease out to the same or slightly greater measurement than natural at the top and bottom edges. I always work from measurements because in order to ensure a completely comfortable fit the corset needs to take into account the locations of bone structures, not just the outer shape.
This is very interesting, I just wonder though what happened to the coutil, it only shows making one layer. But anyway I have once with the help of my mum made a one layer corset where you can see the bonning line showing through on the outside like this one, I now need to make a corset with velvet as my outer layer, some coutil that I bought becuase I was told it would help stiffen it more and keep it in shape and some cotton linning. Though I don’t want the bonning lines/channels to be seen from the outside like this one and my other one do. If I put the bonning channels on my coutil instead, will this work the same. I have seen those old fashioned corsets and some modern ones where you can’t see from the outside that it is bonned becasue all you see is one seam line where one piece joins the next and not 2 lines of stitching on each seam. My first attempt wasn’t brilliant and had very little smooth shape, I wish I could make one that looks flawless and smooth like yours and holds it curvy shape.
I admit I like those corsets that come in very tight to the waist then, flare out over the hips, I keep getting frustrated trying to work out how they made it so good.
Well done on the work on yours, though if you could e-mail me some pointers on my main issue with one i’m making now as described I would very greatful.
Thank you from
Tracy
There are two layers there. Each half is sewn as a continual piece (inside and outside layers), and then when the last seam is sewn you have a continual loop of fabric, two layers, with all the raw seam edges to the inside. If you look through my portfolio, you’ll see a lot of corsets where the boning channels are hidden. This is done by making a core like this, with the boning, and then sewing the cover and lining as a completely separate entity. That slips over the top of the completed core, hiding the channels and securing stitches for the boning. It is then fixed in place at the front and back ends, and along the top and bottom edges before the edging is added.
It can be very tricky to prevent puckering at the hips, especially if there is a lot of hip spring. One way to help combat that is to add more panels. It’s easier to smoothly shape and sew lots of panels that each have only a little curve, than it is to smoothly shape a couple panels that each have a lot of curve.
Reading all your tutorials (after making my first corset two day ago) I feel a lot more confident I didn’t do it too wrong! As through guessing (and looking at my current corsets) a lot of the things I did in a similar way.
But there’s lots new in here I never even thought of. Oh and after cutting my own bones I am definitely buying pre cut next time!
I’m glad you enjoyed the tutorials! :)
I’ve never actually cut my own bones, but it does not look like it’s worth the trouble. Way too much time and effort. The only ones I might cut myself are the spiral boning, but for that to be worth it I would need to buy a huge coil whole-sale. I priced it out for the tips and length of spiral vs. pre-cut, and it worked out to be about the same price from most online suppliers, and one of them actually charged MORE for the coil plus tips than the pre-cut lengths.
Would this style of corset be acceptable for tight lacing?
All of my corsets are high enough quality to be used for tight lacing, and should last as long as a well-made bra even when used daily, regardless of the amount of waist reduction.
Oh, I was just meaning b/c of the shape. I want to start waist training/possibly tight lacing and people keep telling me not to get a corset that goes down on the hips b/c it’ll reduce the amount i can pull my waist in, but longer ones are what look better on me. Thank you for answering my question, though =)
The waist placement has more to do with your body type and natural waist location than anything else. If your natural waistline is low, you will want your corset waist low so it stays put. The waist of the corset will try to migrate to wherever your natural waist is, which can create uncomfortable pressure if the two are very different. A low waist does not inherently mean less waist reduction, and I’m not sure why you would have been told that. I’ve actually found it’s a very high waist that usually cannot take as much waist reduction, because the compression is uneven on the rib cage. When the waist is at the bottom of the rib cage or lower, the compression is gradual down the ribs, with the greatest pressure at the bottom where the ribs are naturally the most mobile. However, if the waist is low and tight lacing, in order to be comfortable and avoid pinching the pelvis it can require a very dramatic spring out to the hips, which is a shaping not normally found in ready-to-wear corsets.
This tutorial is so awesome! It helped me make my first corset! Its hard to find a good corset tutorial with pictures that keep you on the right track. Your corsets are so beautiful and well made. Thank you for passing on your knowledge.
You’re so very welcome! I’m glad people find my tutorials useful. :)