Second Insertion Method

Or, Single Seam Insertion Method

This is the kind of method I have seen most often described in sewing books and pattern instructions.  It involves sewing the gore into the garment using one continual seam from outer edge to outer edge.  This method is much faster, so I prefer to use it with lightweight fabrics.

Cut your gore slash.

Start your seam at the top of the gore with right sides together, panel at the seam line, and gore at seam allowance.

Stitch to the apex of the slash, keeping the gore at seam allowance and following the seam line of the slash.  Back stitch a couple times to reenforce, but be careful not to stitch past the apex of the slash.

With the needle inserted at the apex of the slash, lift your presser foot and turn the garment so the gore is oriented towards you.

While holding the gore in place, pull the bulk of the fabric around so that you are looking at the two edges of the seam.

Pull and adjust the gore and the bulk of the fabric until it is laying smoothly to the side and you can clearly see the edges of your seam.  If you were careful not to stitch past the apex of the slash you should be able to get it almost completely smooth.  This is more difficult with heavier fabrics, which sometimes refuse to get out of the way.

Back stitch a couple times at the apex to reenforce the area, and then stitch to the other end of the gore.  As before, keep the gore at seam allowance and follow the seam line of the slash.  Back stitch when you get to the end of the seam.

Finishing the Gore

Regardless of which method you use to insert the gore, you will want to finish it so it lays smoothly and does not pull free.  All gores inserted into a slash are prone to pulling free at the apex because of the minuscule amount of seam allowance required to smoothly insert the gore.

At the very least, you will want to edge stitch around the entire gore, adding a few extra reinforcing stitches at the apex.  If desired, you can also add some decorative machine stitches over the apex area, or include some embroidery at the apex to hold it firmly in place.  In the case of this garment, I used an up-down buttonhole stitch by hand to finish off and reinforce the apex.

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