black » By Sidney Eileen

Men’s Reversible Vest

Oct 302012

I am finally getting back to work on some sewing projects which I have been sitting on for far too long. Since it has been a while, it was good to start with a relatively simple project, a bespoke reversible men’s vest. Considering that the other projects are all corsets, this was a little simpler, with only two layers, four panels, and a lot fewer curves.

This vest is a little larger than the Violin Vest, but based on the same pattern type. One side is brown cotton canvas, and the other side is a black and brown silk brocade with a diamond pattern. The accent stripes on both sides were created in the silk brocade. It has a mandarin collar and eppaulettes.

In the next week I am planning to start work on the outstanding corset orders.

New Drawing – The Mouth of the Cave

Drawing, Fine Art No Responses »

Mar 242012

6″x9″
Original colored pencil on black paper

This drawing depicts a lion, calm, eyes closed, basking in light, unconcerned master of his domain.

Reference: I close my eyes for a while

This drawing is for sale.

New Painting – Glass Vase and Candle

Fine Art, Painting No Responses »

Feb 052012

4″x5″ oil paint on canvas
Four sittings
Reference is one of my own photos

For the final layer, I added some touches of pure white to the light reflections in the vase.

A look back at the steps leading up to the finished painting:

Glass Vase and Candle - WIP2

4″x5″ oil paint on canvas
Three sittings
Reference is one of my own photos

In this layer I added brighter candle reflections in a very pale yellow.

Glass Vase and Candle - WIP1

4″x5″ oil paint on canvas
Two sittings
Reference is one of my own photos

Base layer is thinly applied alizarin crimson.

The second layer started with a very thin application of black paint over the entire canvas. It then took a pale beige paint and defined the outline of the vase. Additional beige and white paint was added in places to create the base layer of lighting.

Project: Glass Vase and Candle

Linen and Velvet Merry Widow

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The Merry Widow corset as it was meant to be, fully boned and functional, but with a modern bra top for a fully modern fashion profile.

This is a merry widow corset I made for myself. It has a pattern matched linen and velveteen cover, black velveteen gores and cups, a lacing panel, ribbon shoulder straps, and riveted speed-lacing for the front closure.

Linen and Velvet Merry Widow

Core: Two layers of corset coutil
Cover: Linen blend burlap-like fabric with velveteen cutwork, and black velveteen
Cup Size: "B"
Boning: 1/2" and 1/4" wide flat spring steel bones
Piecing: 5 panels per side, 2 hip gores per side
Front Closure: Riveted boot hooks and speed laces

Low-Back Striped Merry Widow

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The Merry Widow corset as it was meant to be, fully boned and functional, but with a modern bra top for a fully modern fashion profile.

This is a bespoke plus-sized merry widow corset. It has a low back, white satin cover, black satin boning embellishments, a metal busk, and a lacing panel.

Low-Back Striped Merry Widdow

Core: Two layers of corset coutil
Cover: White polyester satin
Bone Accents: Black double-satin ribbon
Cup Size: "D"
Boning: 1/2" flat spring steel bones
Piecing: 8 panels per side
Busk: metal straight busk

Tightlacing Black Satin Ribbon Corset

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Traditionally these were made both with ribbon, and with fabric sewn into ribbon strips. The horizontal strips are independent from each other, sewn only at the sides, busk, and back lacing. They are suitable for light-lacing and tight-lacing.

This tight lacing corset is made from black double-face satin ribbon.

Tightlacing Black Satin Ribbon Corset

Fabric: Polyester double-satin ribbon and corset coutil
Boning: 1/4" flat spring steel bones
Bows: Double-satin ribbon, tied on through buttonholes at the top of the busk.
Busk: 8" metal straight double-busk

Photographer/Model: Lianne Oostindjer
Photographer/Model/Editing: Info by request

Non-Tabbed Black Satin Conical Corset

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blacksatinuntabbed-final2-quarterfront-med

Conical stays with tabs were historically used throughout the 1600′s and 1700′s. The simplest designs are created with the price-conscious reenactor in mind. Fancier designs and subtle variations in silhouette are possible when using complex panel piecing and decorative elements.

This is a bespoke non-tabbed conical corset with black satin cover material.

Non-Tabbed Black Satin Conical Corset

Fabric: Two core layers of hemp/linen canvas, black satin cover, and black cotton broadcloth lining
Boning: 1/2" flat spring steel bones fanned for the front panel and 1/4" flat spring steel bones spaced 1" apart along the sides
Core Piecing: Three panels total - one front panel, and two back panels
Cover Piecing: One continuous panel
Edging: Black double-face satin ribbon

The core layers were constructed using three panels for strength. The cover was cut from one continuous piece of material and added after the core had been boned. This way the cover is free of seam lines and boning channel stitching.

Purple and Black Lace Sweetheart

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Overbust corsets are non-conical, non-bra overbust corsets popular for modern wear. Historic periods of use range throughout the Victorian and Edwardian, and include all manner of piecing styles involving panels and gores.

This is a bespoke plus-sized sweetheart overbust corset. It has purple satin cover material overlaid with pattern matched black and purple lace, a lacing panel, and a split metal busk.

Purple and Black Lace Sweetheart

Fabric: Two layers of corset coutil, cover is satin overlaid with black and purple stretchy lace, lining 100% cotton broadcloth
Edging: Double-face satin ribbon
Boning: 1/4" flat spring steel and spiral steel bones
Piecing: Panels and bust gores
Busk: 12" metal straight double-busk

Red Silk Overbust with Black Flossing

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This is a bespoke sweetheart overbust corset. It has red dupioni silk cover material, contrast black stitching, flossing, lacing panel, lace edging, and split metal busk.

Red Silk Overbust with Black Flossing

Core: Two layers of corset coutil
Cover: Dark red dupioni silk
Flossing: Black buttonhole thread
Edging: Black dupioni silk bias tape
Lace: Black slightly stretchy lace
Boning (1st Version): 38 1/4" flat spring steel bones
Boning (2nd Version): 6 1/4" flat spring steel bones, 22 1/4" spiral steel bones
Piecing: 8 panels per side
Busk: 16" metal straight double busk

There are two versions of this corset. The first one had some oddities with the draft that meant it would not fit on a human body, so it will be staying in my personal collection as an example of flossing.

As long as I was remaking the corset, the customer requested slightly more waist reduction, and I moved the waistline down to her natural waistline so it would be more comfortable and create more dramatic curves. To accommodate the altered shape, I changed the boning pattern from double-bone pattern to a single-bone pattern. I also used spiral boning for most of the body, instead of spring steel flats. The lace and the backing bone for the busk are salvaged from the first corset.

Gothic Brocade Overbust

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This is a bespoke overbust corset. It has a pattern matched brocade cover, black satin ribbon boning embellishments, a split metal busk, and black satin edging.

Gothic Brocade Overbust

Core: Two layers of corset coutil
Cover: Polyester "ecclesiastical" brocade in black and red, pattern matched
Adornment: Double-satin black ribbon sewn over the seams
Boning: 1/4" flat spring steel bones
Piecing: 6 panels per side (12 total)
Busk: 13" metal straight busk

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