The last few days I have been working on my hybrid style fully corded corset. Â The first step is to fully cord all the panels and gores. Â The strength layer is coutil, with thin cotton rope for cording, and black linen for the cover material. Â I couldn’t find yellow buttonhole thread, so I am using bright yellow machine embroidery thread for the stitching on the cords of the black panels.
The overall design is a hybrid of conical stays with stomacher and Victorian.
WIP1 – Three out of fifteen panels corded. Strength layer is coutil. Cording is a thin cotton rope. Cover is black linen. Cording channels are stitched with bright yellow machine embroidery thread since I couldn’t find the right color in buttonhole thread.WIP2 – Six and a half panels out of fifteen corded. After I finish cording each panel I trim down the linen to the size of the coutil.Detail of the cord channel stitching on the unfinished back panel. I am using a thin cotton rope for the cording, and bright yellow machine embroidery thread for the stitching so it will pop.WIP3 – Nine and a half panels out of fifteen corded. The two panels on the right side are for the stomacher, which will be yellow linen with black stitching.Detail of the underside of a panel after cording, before trimming. The cording is sticking out slightly at the top and bottom ends where the edge of the corset will be bound. The cording stops a short distance from the seam allowance to either side, but the stitching continues into the seam allowance.