Corded Regency Corset - Finished

The corded Regency corset is finished, including the fan lacing.  The chemise is also finished, and the bodiced petticoat is very close to being finished.  As soon as all the pieces are ready, I’ll take some nice photos of everything.  Then it will be packed and sent off to the customer.

The fan lacing is based on two reference photos the customer sent me showing a period example of fan lacing.  In the photo it appears that the lacing is sewn directly into the fabric used to pull the lacing tight.  I opted to change this detail so the lacing could be adjusted or changed out if needed, without having to completely re-make the tie.  I am including the photos here for educational purposes, so you fine folks can see exactly what I’m talking about.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 1

Each tie consists of two layers of cotton drill fabric, one short length of cotton taffeta ribbon, and one longer length of silk satin ribbon

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 2

The cotton ribbon is pinned into the wider end of the fabric, right sides together.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 3

I used a 1/2″ seam, and when I got to the narrow end, I sandwiched in the silk satin ribbon.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 4

I left a large hole along one side of each tie so they could be turned.  You may trim your fabric if desired.  I did not trim.

 

Fan Lacing Construction - 5

The ribbons make it fairly easy to turn the ties.  I then stitched the holes closed by hand using a hidden running stitch.

 

Corded Regency Corset - Finished

Click for Larger View

This is what the corset looks like laid out flat, after the lacing has all be put onto the corset.

Corded Regency Corset - Finished

Click for Larger View

The lacing ribbon has not been pre-shrunk for the washing machine, and I will want to adjust the lengths once I lace it on something and can see exactly where the ribbons are too long or too short.  Thus, I left quite a bit of extra length when it tied off each section of ribbon, creating the extra muddle of loose ribbon on the left of the photo.  Each ribbon length ties four grommets (two rows of grommet), except for the very bottom grommets, which are alone because I have an odd number of grommets on each side of the corset.

 

The Other Undergarments

I apologize for not taking detailed photos of the construction, but I am very short on time at the moment.  Hopefully I will make another Regency set at a later date and be able to give all the details.

Regency Chemise - Flat

The chemise is finished.    It’s a fairly standard A-frame chemise typical of the Georgian period.  Since the customer is busty, the front was cut wider than the back, so when the shoulders are matched up it gives the illusion of a trapezoidal shape to the front.  The sleeves are wide enough to be comfortable for a more ample figure as well.  The gussets are square.  All internal seams are french seam construction.  The neckline is very narrow, so I finished it by hand using a hidden running stitch on the inside.  The drawstring is silk taffeta ribbon.

 

Bodiced Petticoat - WIP1

The bodiced petticoat is almost finished.  The bodice is two layers of muslin, and will lace closed at the sides.  I was able to find text reference to drop-front bodiced petticoat, and one example of a drop-front Regency dress, but I had no luck finding any photos of similar extant petticoats.  So, I just made my best guess based on what I could find.

The skirt of the petticoat is five panels with a slight flare to each.  Two of the panels are in the front, creating less bulk and providing a slimming silhouette.  Three panels are in the back, with the most gathering toward the center back.  This will give more leg room and help to keep the gown worn over it from sinking into the small of the back.

The two remaining details are eyelets on the sides of the bodice to lace through, and lace trim along the bottom hem.

 

 

Project: Regency Corset

 

 
modeled-front

Today I had a chance to get dressed up and take some photos of the corset I made to illustrate my section of Steampunk Projects from the Gaslamp Garage.  This corset is a lightweight underbust, with a single layer of coutil, rich brown herringbone cover material, a lacing panel, and a split metal busk.

Brown Herringbone Underbust

 
modeled-front

These corsets are styled after the fashion profiles of the late Victorian and Edwardian. Underbusts come up to right under the bust, or just a bit below. Waist cinchers usually just cover from the bottom of the rib cage to the top of the hips.

This corset is a lightweight underbust, with a single layer of coutil, rich brown herringbone cover material, a lacing panel, and a split metal busk.

 
revised-12

I have completely revised my corset making tutorial, How to Add a Double-Busk.  It uses all new photos I took while making the corset for my section in Steampunk Projects from the Gaslamp Garage, and described how to make a complete backing panel for behind the busk, the same height as the corset and edged to match.

 
Click for larger version

I’m getting down to the wire for my section of Steampunk Projects from the Gaslamp Garage, and spent today speeding through making the corset to illustrate it.  It’s more than half-way done, and I now completely understand why most professional corset makers use some version of the welt-seam method to create their corsets.  It look me 1/4 the time it normally would to get this far because instead of sewing each layer separately and then joining them together, I assembled almost the entire corset in one go.  The only thing I forgot was the waist tape, so I’ll make another using this method a little later to illustrate including waist tape.

Click for larger version

As you can see, it is entirely together, but there’s still a lot of detail work to do.  I need to stitch the boning in place, edge it, grommet it, make the backing bone for the busk, and make the lacing panel.

Just a few days ago, Steam Ingenious posted a brief corset-making tutorial featuring a variation of the method I used to construct the corset above, plus she remembered to include waist tape.  ;)

 

In other upcoming projects, I have heard back from one of my customers, so in March I will begin work on the final version of the Victorian corset with almost full boning, external bone casing, and lots of flossing.  I’ll be posting detailed descriptions as I work on that corset.

In March I’m also planning to make an unfinished corset core for a felting artist in Belgium.  She’s planning to make a cover of solid shaped felt to go over it, and should be sending me some photos along the way to share with you folks.

Drab Green Silk Overbust Corset

 
modeled-quarterfront

Overbust corsets are non-conical, non-bra overbust corsets popular for modern wear. Historic periods of use range throughout the Victorian and Edwardian, and include all manner of piecing styles involving panels and gores.

This is a plus-sized Victorian overbust corset I made for a friend.  It has drab green dupioni silk cover material, flossing, lacing panel, and split metal busk.

Black Low-Hipped Underbust

 
final-front-med

These corsets are styled after the fashion profiles of the late Victorian and Edwardian. Underbusts come up to right under the bust, or just a bit below. Waist cinchers usually just cover from the bottom of the rib cage to the top of the hips.

This corset is a bespoke custom commissioned tight lacing underbust, using two layers of black corset coutil, with low hips, a lacing panel, and split metal double busk.

Cream Silk Underbust with Lace Edging

 
final-front-med

These corsets are styled after the fashion profiles of the late Victorian and Edwardian. Underbusts come up to right under the bust, or just a bit below. Waist cinchers usually just cover from the bottom of the rib cage to the top of the hips.

This corset is a bespoke custom commissioned underbust, with a cream silk cover, a lacing panel, lace edging on the top and bottom, and a split metal busk.

 
Plum Dupioni Sweetheart - Quarterfront View
Plum Dupioni Sweetheart - Quarterfront View
 

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