Lucy Corsetry Interview and NACLS

The North American Corsetry and Lingerie Symposium happened on July 18, 19, and 20.  I was mistaken about the weekend when it was happening and had to pack in a rush to head out the door for the symposium.  The corded corset did not get finished, and I have barely done anything with it since.

That said, the weekend was absolutely amazing!  One of the biggest highlights for me was meeting Lucy of Lucy’s Corsetry in person.  Most of you probably know her because of her site and YouTube channel where she shares her wealth of knowledge about corsets, corset makers, and corset brands.  For me the connection is much more personal, because when I announced I was sick she offered to run a funding campaign for me to help pay for me medical expenses.  The campaign was a success, and without it I am fairly certain I would still not be able to take the antibiotics I needed because all of my expenses have been out of pocket, without any help from insurance.  At the end of the weekend we had time to film an interview for her vlog.

 

In other news I met lot of other amazing people, and had a fantastic time.  In the classes learned a new technique for pattern matching from Amber Welch of Lovely Rats Corsets, an interesting method of draping a ribbon corset so it does not have a side panel from Jasmine Ines of Sin and Satin Corsetry, and learned more about ready-to-wear corsetry from Jessica of Ties That Bynd Designs, Inc.  On the second day of classes I also got to prattle for several hours about hand sewing and embroidery.  I was tired enough by that point in the weekend that I had trouble staying on focus and on topic, but despite my issues I saw a lot of ah-ha moments, which always makes me happy.

Zessina took a number of candid photos on the first day of classes.  These first two are from the pattern matching class, where we were using tracing paper to pattern match across panels.

Photo  of NACLS 2015, by Zessina https://www.facebook.com/Zessinna

Photo of NACLS 2015, by Zessina

Photo  of NACLS 2015, by Zessina https://www.facebook.com/Zessinna

Photo of NACLS 2015, by Zessina

I love the fabric I ended up with, but I didn’t get far enough along during the class to cut into it, so at some point down the road I will use one of my own patterns and that fabric to make a corset using the method Amber Welch taught.

Floral Cotton Print Fabric

Floral print cotton fabric I received at NACLS 2015 for the pattern matching workshop.

Lastly, I want to include a candid photo of Zessina the photographer, model, and all-around delightful person who took the candid photos above.  Here she was trying on one of the Lovely Rats corsets with the assistance of Amber Welch, ahead of the photo shoots that happened the next day.

Photo of Zessina and Amber Welch, NACLS 2015

Photo of Zessina and Amber Welch, NACLS 2015

Later that same day we also had a fun corset trying-on session, where any of us who were interested got to try on the corsets various makers had brought with them to the conference.  Some of the corsets from Ties that Bynde were close enough to my measurements to try on, so I did so with delight.  They were a little too long for me to sit in (a very typical problem for me with ready-to-wear corsets), but otherwise delightfully comfortable and with a much larger reduction than I currently have on any of my personal corsets.

The next NACLS is tentatively planned for 2017, and I’m looking very much forward to it.  I hope to see more of you there! :)

Red Silk Sweetheart – WIP 1

This is one of the projects currently on my sewing machine.  It’s a re-make of a red silk sweetheart overbust, with flossing and lace edging on the top.  The first version will be staying in my personal collection as an example of flossing, because I made a rather silly mistake in the final draft and it will never fit properly on an actual human being.

WIP image from earlier this week (click the image for larger size):

WIP image from this evening (click the image for larger size):

Drab Green, Plus-Sized Dupioni Silk Overbust

Drab Green Silk Overbust Corset - Quarter Front View, by Sidney Eileen

Drab Green Silk Overbust Corset  

This is a plus-sized Victorian overbust corset I made for a friend.  It has drab green dupioni silk cover material, flossing, lacing panel, and split metal busk.

Core: Two layers of corset coutil
Cover: Drab green dupioni silk
Flossing: Beige buttonhole thread
Edging: Matching dupioni silk bias tape
Boning: 1/4″ flat spring steel and spiral bones
Piecing: 6 panels per side
Busk: 14″ metal straight double busk

Merry Widow Corset Portfolios

The Merry Widow corset as it was meant to be, fully boned and functional, but with a modern bra top for a fully modern fashion profile.


Linen and Velvet Merry Widow


This is a merry widow corset I made for myself. It has a pattern matched linen and velveteen cover, black velveteen gores and cups, a lacing panel, ribbon shoulder straps, and riveted speed-lacing for the front closure.

Low-Back Striped Merry Widow


This is a bespoke plus-sized merry widow corset. It has a low back, white satin cover, black satin boning embellishments, a metal busk, and a lacing panel.

 

Tabbed Stays Portfolios

Conical stays with tabs were historically used throughout the 1600’s and 1700’s. The simplest designs are created with the price-conscious reenactor in mind. Fancier designs and subtle variations in silhouette are possible when using complex panel piecing and decorative elements.


Brown Silk Renaissance Stays


This is a bespoke conical corset for Renaissance reenactment. It has a brown dupioni silk cover, busk pocket, and leather edging.

Blue Taffeta Silk Stays with Busk Pocket


This is a bespoke conical corset for Renaissance reenactment. It has a blue silk taffeta cover, busk pocket, and offset lacing.

Fully Boned Silk Renaissance Stays


This is a bespoke conical corset for Renaissance reenactment. It has beige dupioni silk cover material, is fully boned, and has a pocket for a wooden busk.

Basic Renaissance Stays


These are basic "renaissance" stays, all partially boned and created using modern methods and materials.

Fully Boned Basic Renaissance Stays


These basic "renaissance" stays are all fully boned.

Non-Tabbed Black Satin Conical Corset


This is a bespoke non-tabbed conical corset with black satin cover material.

Basic Renaissance Stays (Old Style)


These corsets were made several years ago, and I no longer use this construction method.